Discover the Jewish Past of Morocco’s Berber Villages

The rich Jewish history and culture of Morocco reveals a remarkable and often overlooked narrative. In exploring this subject, one uncovers significant remnants of Jewish presence, demonstrating how Jewish communities not only coexisted but thrived within Morocco’s vibrant historical context.

As one traverses the towering mountain passes, a plethora of secluded communities can be found nestled within the High Atlas, where traces of Jewish Berber heritage still endure. The Atlas Mountains served as the home to many Jewish Berbers who harmoniously cohabited with their Muslim counterparts. Jewish merchants traversed these mountains, engaging in trade and assimilating into Berber society, with some eventually embracing Judaism, leaving an indelible mark on Berber spirituality.

Even today, Berber villages in Morocco still reflect their Jewish heritage, despite the absence of Jewish residents. In Ouirgane, for instance, the Shrine of Haim ben Diourne holds the tombs of several revered rabbis, attracting visitors each May for a festival of remembrance. Similarly, Sefrou, a small city nestled in the foothills of the Middle Atlas Mountains near Fez, was historically significant as a major trade hub and one of the few Moroccan cities with a notable Jewish-Berber population, underscoring its pivotal role in Moroccan-Jewish history.

Ourika Valley, a region known for its Berber villages – New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Berber presence in Morocco spans centuries. While most Berbers are of the Islamic (Sunni Muslim) faith, Morocco once boasted a significant Jewish Berber population, a community that persisted until the 1960s.

Another region where Muslim Berbers and Jewish Berbers coexisted in relative harmony was Tinejdad, each contributing to the prosperity of this agricultural area with their distinct roles.

The Ourika Valley is renowned for its Berber villages and local souks, making it a favored destination for residents of Marrakech, especially during the summer months. This picturesque valley is replete with lush gardens, palm tree plantations, summer residences, cozy cafes, and restaurants. For a traditional dining experience, you can savor a meal in one of the local auberges (inns). Alternatively, if you prefer a more casual experience, you can enjoy a picnic while taking in the stunning view of the snow-capped mountains overlooking the tranquil Ourika River.

The tomb of Rabbi Shlomo Bel-Hench holds a significant place of reverence, located just beyond the borders of the Ourika Valley. This sacred resting place, which is over 500 years old, is the final resting site of Rabbi Shlomo Bel-Hench, an emissary from Israel who initially arrived in Morocco to raise funds but eventually settled in the area.

During the 1950s, this region was home to a small Jewish community of only 300 families. It boasted two synagogues, Jewish schools, rabbis who conducted circumcisions, bar-mitzvahs, and weddings, as well as an ample supply of kosher food and matzah during Pesach.

Over time, Rabbi Shlomo Bel-Hench’s tomb has drawn visitors from all corners of the world, each seeking remedies for illnesses and hoping to witness healing miracles. Another belief holds that he possessed the ability to “transform into a snake to protect the village’s horses from thieves.”

Rabbi Shlomo (Salomon) remains one of the most venerated Jewish saints in Morocco, revered not only by Jews but also by Muslims, who affectionately call him “Moul Asguine.”

Rabbi Shlomo Bel-Hench – New York Jewish Travel Guide

What makes the preservation of Rabbi Shlomo Bel-Hench’s grave truly remarkable is the touching story of the last Berber Jew born in Ourika, who faithfully guarded the Tzadik’s tomb. This remarkable individual was Hananiah Alfassi, and his photograph now adorns the side of the Rabbi’s Tomb.

The Alfassi family, comprising Berber-Jewish relatives and friends, joined the wave of Moroccan immigration to Israel during the 1950s and 1960s. Hananiah, his mother Saada, and his wife Yamna were the only ones who chose to remain behind, and tragically, they had no children. The grave of his mother, Lalla Saada, located just outside the entrance of the Rabbi’s tomb, became a revered pilgrimage site.

Hananiah Alfassi, at the age of 80, passed away in 2016 and now rests beside his wife Yamna, who passed away in the late 1990s at the age of 78 in Marrakesh. Fatima, who had been Hananiah’s caregiver during his later years, has taken up the role of caretaker for Rabbi Bel-Hench’s shrine. Reflecting on her long association with Hananiah, she shared, “I have been living here with Hananiah all my life for over 40 years, and I grew up with his wife and his mother.”

The Restoration of the Rabbi Shlomo Bel-Hench Synagogue was made possible by Mr. Greg Caplan from London – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Today, the shrine draws thousands of annual visitors from Israel, France, Morocco, and beyond. The shrine experienced a comprehensive restoration under the careful stewardship of Mrs. Zohra Georgette Elkaim Moyal, who embarked on this project as a tribute to her family’s enduring legacy. Additionally, the shrine offers accommodations for visitors who wish to spend Shabbat, with several guest rooms, a kosher kitchen, and a recently restored synagogue, thanks to the generosity of Mr. Greg Caplan from London.

The Shrine of Rabbi David Ben Baroukh in Taroudant, this walled city, though smaller in size compared to Marrakech, holds a rich Jewish history dating back to the 11th century. Taroudant served as a vital stopover for the caravan trade route between Marrakesh and Timbuktu. In the early 1950s, the Jewish community in Taroudant numbered around 1,000 and played a significant role in the city’s economy. However, by the late 1950s, over 40 percent of the Jewish population relied on communal support. Unfortunately, alcoholism became a pressing issue within the community, leading many Jews to emigrate to other Moroccan cities, as well as France and Israel, in search of a better life.

Across Morocco, numerous Jewish shrines and cemeteries are scattered, with a total of 322 Tzadikim (righteous individuals) believed to be interred in them. Out of these sites, only 75 bear-marked graves receive annual visits from Jewish pilgrims who come from Israel, Europe, and various corners of the world.

Shrine of Rabbi David Ben Baroukh – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Each December, more than 2,000 Jewish individuals from around the world make a pilgrimage to the shrine of Rabbi David Ben Baroukh in Tinzert, a town located in the Taroudant province. They gather to commemorate his life and engage in the recitation of Jewish religious prayers. The shrine provides 300 rooms for visitors who attend this annual sponsored event, offering not only spiritual solace but also food and lodging. The Hilloula, as this occasion is known, involves several hours of prayer, feasting, and communal singing. Participants use this time to beseech blessings for various needs, including wisdom, forgiveness, health, and livelihood, both for themselves and their loved ones.

According to legend, when Rabbi David Ben Baroukh was born in the Atlas Mountains, his father noticed the divine name inscribed on his forehead. He therefore cautioned the family never to expose him to the public without covering his forehead, as it was believed that seeing the divine name could cause blindness. Rabbi David Ben Baroukh later married the sister of Rav Kalifa Malka and devoted himself to the study of Kabbalah. Renowned for his reputed ability to heal incurable ailments and characterized by his humility and kindness, the revered rabbi passed away around 1785.

A gigantic silver menorah at the shrine of Rabbi David Ben Baroukh – New York Jewish Travel Guide

In Taroudant, we visited an artisanal shop that was once a synagogue and the home of Mr. Sisso Zafrani. The synagogue room was where the community gathered for prayers and High Holidays.

Mr. Zafrani, a married man with four children now in Agadir, helped the Jewish community with daily transactions, including selling businesses or homes for those moving to France or Israel. He lived to 102, passing away in 2002 and was buried in Agadir. His house was then converted into an artisanal shop and sold to the Taroudant community. Today, about 15 to 20 Jewish families, mostly of French origin, live on the outskirts of Taroudant.

Ouarzazate, located south of the Atlas Mountains, has historically been a key trading hub for sub-Saharan and Moroccan commerce. In the 17th century, an Amazigh (Berber) leader built the Taourirt Kasbah and the Mellah (Jewish Quarter) there. By 1954, about 170 Jewish residents lived in the Mellah.

Glaoui Kasbah of Taourirt- New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Glaoui Kasbah in Taourirt, once a symbol of the Glaoui brothers’ power, is a must-visit with its luxurious apartments, simple clay houses, and ornate towers. We also explored Ait Benhaddou, the most exotic and well-preserved Kasbah in the Atlas region, famous for its appearances in films like “Lawrence of Arabia,” “Jesus of Nazareth,” “Gladiator,” and “The Mummy.”

In the heart of Mellah, Taourirt hides a remarkable treasure: the Old Synagogue, which has been meticulously preserved for over 400 years. Now a museum, it offers an intriguing look into the past with its historic architecture and artifacts, shedding light on the once-thriving Jewish community of the region. The museum is easily recognizable by the prominent Star of David displayed at the top of its wall.

Taourirt’s Old Synagogue – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Inside, you’ll discover an extensive collection that highlights the rich heritage of Berber Jews, including Judaica and numerous images of Rabbis and Tzadikim. This museum is a remarkable historical treasure, not only documenting the history of Jews in Morocco but also showcasing the harmonious coexistence between Jewish and Amazigh communities. It stands as a testament to the cultural synergy that flourished for centuries.

On the second floor, you’ll find a labyrinth of interconnected rooms and staircases, featuring a classroom and a space for worship. This area offers deeper insight into the traditions and history of the Berber Jewish community.

Our journey through Morocco has illuminated the rich legacies and vibrant histories woven into its architectural marvels and cultural treasures. Beyond its breathtaking landscapes, Morocco’s true allure lies in the stories etched on its walls and preserved in its museums. Each site we visited tells a tale of coexistence, resilience, and cultural richness, offering a profound connection to the past and a celebration of human narratives.