The Jewish presence on the Iberian Peninsula predates the establishment of Portugal as a nation. Portuguese Jews have made enduring contributions to the nation’s cultural heritage through their significant involvement in the arts, philosophy, commerce, and sciences. Today, there is a growing fascination with uncovering Portugal’s Jewish legacy, particularly in cities like Lisbon, Porto, and numerous picturesque villages, as well as the rediscovery of long-forgotten Jewish neighborhoods throughout the country.
What’s remarkable is that nearly 20 percent of the population is believed to have Jewish ancestry, motivating many Portuguese individuals to embark on journeys to reconnect with their Jewish roots. With the assistance of DNA testing, it has become increasingly common to encounter locals who have delved into genealogical research and uncovered their Jewish heritage in surprising ways.
For those enthusiastic about exploring the history and communities of Judaism in Portugal, several cities beckon, including Elvas, Evora, and Castelo de Vide. The Jewish presence in Portugal can be traced back to a time when the nation itself had yet to emerge, with historical records hinting at the arrival of the first Jews as early as the sixth century.
This captivating country abounds with locations, narratives, and traditions that breathe life into the Jewish heritage. From the evocative streets of historic Jewish quarters, known as Judarias, to some of the nation’s oldest synagogues and contemporary synagogues and museums, Portugal offers a vibrant tapestry of Jewish history and culture, ready to be explored and celebrated.
The Jewish heritage in Lisbon has deep roots, with its origins dating back to the Alfama quarter. This vibrant community encompassed both the Judiaria Grande and the Rua da Judiaria, and the narrow streets of this area still resonate with the spirit of the generations of Portuguese Jews who once thrived there. As the Jewish community continued to grow, Lisbon saw an influx of Jewish refugees, leading to the establishment of a new neighborhood called Judiaria Pequena in the 13th century, near what is now the central Praça do Comércio. Unfortunately, this entire district was tragically destroyed during the devastating 1755 earthquake.
Nearby was Rossio Square, which, before the earthquake, was the site of the Inquisition court. Here, Jews and others accused of heresy faced a grim fate, often being burned at the stake as a form of punishment.
Lisbon also features the National Museum of Ancient Art, which houses a collection of early Portuguese masterpieces. Among these are depictions of Jews with Stars of David on their clothing, a rabbi studying the Talmud, and other works with Jewish themes. The museum offers valuable insight into Portugal’s Jewish heritage through its historical and artistic exhibits.
“The Tragic Legacy: Remembering the 1506 Jewish Massacre in Lisbon”
“Unveiling Lisbon’s Hidden Legacy: The Cristo-Novos Story”
On April 19, 2006, the Jewish community of Portugal revealed a simple yet profoundly significant memorial. The memorial consists of a perfectly round travertine stone, halved to create a flat surface adorned with a bronze Star of David monument.
Accompanying the memorial is a plaque bearing a somber inscription: “In memory of the thousands of Jews who fell victim to intolerance and religious fanaticism, massacred on this square starting April 19, 1506.”
Etched into the base of the memorial is a verse from the Book of Job (16:18, King James Version): “O earth, cover not thou my blood, and let my cry have no place.” This inscription serves as a poignant reminder of the devastating consequences of intolerance and religious extremism.
Furthermore, Commerce Square, or Praça do Comércio, stands as a contemporary gathering spot for locals and a picturesque destination along the riverfront. However, it carries historical significance as the site where thousands of Jews were coerced into baptism during the 15th century.
While exploring Lisbon’s downtown streets, including Baixa, Rossio, Chiado, and Bairro Alto, visitors will encounter the remarkable story of the Cristo-Novos, a subgroup of Sephardic Jews. Despite enduring over four centuries of persecution in secrecy, they left behind a legacy that exemplifies resilience and the enduring strength of their heritage.
Steinhardt outlined the diverse composition of Lisbon’s Jewish community, which includes Ashkenazic and Sephardic Jews, as well as Moroccan immigrants from the late 19th century and individuals of Russian and Polish descent who fled pogroms in the early 20th century. Despite this rich diversity, the Lisbon Jewish community is among the smallest in Europe.
Currently, the synagogue does not offer formal Jewish education programs such as Hebrew classes or Sunday school. However, the rabbi provides educational opportunities for those interested in deepening their understanding of Judaism and its traditions. Steinhardt noted that anti-Semitism is generally not a concern in Portugal. Instead, the community enjoys a welcoming atmosphere characterized by philo-Semitism, which reflects Portugal’s long history of tolerance and appreciation for Jewish heritage. Wearing a kippah is considered safe in Portugal, unlike in some other European cities where it might attract unwelcome attention.
Steinhardt shared with the New York Jewish Travel Guide (NYJTG), “We are dedicated to providing our community with essential services, including a synagogue, a modern mikvah, a cemetery, a vibrant youth movement with weekly meetings, a community center, a tennis court, and a swimming pool. These facilities are aimed at helping our children connect more deeply with our traditions.”
He also addressed the challenge of securing kosher food, stating, “We are actively working on this issue. Although we have a modern kitchen, finding someone to operate it has been challenging, and this is something we are working to resolve.”
During World War II, Portuguese Jews played a crucial role in aiding refugees, operating through organizations such as the “Portuguese Commission for the Assistance of the Jewish Refugees in Portugal.” Often likened to Oskar Schindler, Aristides de Sousa Mendes emerged as a hero by saving thousands of Jewish lives. Recognizing the invaluable contributions of Portuguese Jews, Ana Mendes Godinho, Portugal’s Secretary of State for Tourism, highlights their significance in the nation’s history. She warmly invites Jewish visitors to explore Portugal’s scenic wonders and envisions the country as a peaceful haven where diverse religious communities can coexist harmoniously.
Exploring Lisbon: Must-See Attractions and Hidden Gems
Exploring Belém: A Journey Through History and Architecture
The civil parish of Belém, named after Bethlehem, is rich with historic landmarks and architectural marvels. This district offers a captivating blend of history, architecture, and scenic beauty, making it a must-visit for enthusiasts and photographers alike. One of its standout attractions is the Tower of Belém, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that majestically overlooks the Atlantic Coast.
Castelo de São Jorge: A Timeless Journey Above Lisbon
Perched on Lisbon’s highest hill, the historic Castelo de São Jorge, dating back to the 11th century, offers stunning views of the city’s terracotta rooftops and the winding river below. Explore its ancient ramparts and shaded courtyards, and be sure to visit the Tower of Ulysses for an unrivaled 360-degree panorama of Lisbon. Inside the castle walls, you’ll find remnants of an 11th-century Moorish neighborhood, providing a fascinating glimpse into centuries of history.
Morning Magic in Alfama: Exploring Authentic Traditions
Alfama, with its roots tracing back to the Moorish era, is a charming district celebrated for its labyrinthine cobblestone streets. These winding alleys lead visitors past quaint shops, cozy eateries, and traditional Fado clubs nestled within beautifully preserved historic buildings. Strolling through Alfama can often feel like discovering hidden gems tucked away in private courtyards. For a truly authentic experience, visit in the early morning hours to witness local women selling fresh fish from their doorsteps, offering a glimpse into the enduring traditions of this enchanting area.
Sintra: Where History, Beauty, and Heritage Unite
Nestled among the lush, pine-covered hills of the Serra de Sintra, Sintra has long been a retreat for Portugal’s elite. Its majestic palaces, grand mansions, and vibrant gardens reflect a blend of opulence and natural splendor. This captivating town, with its rich architectural and scenic allure, is a must-visit destination for tourists and a favored day trip from Lisbon. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural, botanical, and historical significance, Sintra also holds remnants of its Jewish Quarter from before the events of 1497, adding depth to its storied past.
Discovering the Charms of Cascais: A Perfect Day Trip Destination
Perched along the stunning Lisbon coastline, Cascais emerges as the premier resort town, ideal for an unforgettable day trip. The scenic coastline, with its sandy beaches and rugged cliffs, is complemented by the town’s elegant mansions, intriguing museums, and peaceful parks. Cascais offers a wealth of attractions and activities, making it a must-visit destination for a day excursion, promising a delightful and enriching experience.
Estoril: A Haven of Luxury and Refuge During World War II
Estoril, an elegant beach resort located along the scenic coastline west of Lisbon, epitomizes sophistication and refinement. Renowned for its exquisite restaurants, top-tier hotels, and the largest casino on the Iberian Peninsula, the town exudes an aura of opulence and exclusivity. Visitors can enjoy a range of attractions, from stunning beaches and championship golf courses to charming historic towns. During World War II, Estoril notably served as a refuge for writers, politicians, artists, businessmen, and many Jewish individuals fleeing the Third Reich.
Bairro Alto: Lisbon’s Nightlife Gem
Bairro Alto and Chiado, two interconnected neighborhoods in Lisbon, each offer a unique charm. By day, Chiado is known for its chic atmosphere, featuring a vibrant shopping scene, theaters, and historic landmarks, alongside traditional shops, cozy cafes, and inviting restaurants.
As night falls, Bairro Alto becomes the city’s bustling nightlife hub. The district comes alive with a variety of small bars, intimate venues, and eateries where the soulful sounds of Fado music resonate through the narrow cobblestone streets. Weekends transform the area into a lively carnival of revelers, making Bairro Alto the place to experience the vibrant energy of Lisbon’s nightlife.
For more information:
To plan a trip to Portugal, contact Visit Portugal or log on to:
https://www.visitportugal.com/en
For more information about Jewish tourism in Portugal, visit
https://www.pathsoffaith.com/en
Story by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide, and New York Jewish Guide.
The author took part in a press trip sponsored by Visit Portugal.
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