The Czech Republic boasts a rich and enduring Jewish heritage that spans centuries, evident in its ten thriving Jewish communities and over 350 Jewish cemeteries. The country is home to the second-largest synagogue in Europe and the third largest globally. Many towns across the Czech Republic have significant Jewish populations, with Czech Jews making remarkable cultural contributions in both religious and secular spheres. From exquisite crystal craftsmanship to the literary genius of Franz Kafka, from flourishing kosher vineyards to the esteemed Rabbi Loew and the legendary Golem of Prague, the mystique of this region is deeply woven into its history.
While Prague stands as the epicenter of Czech Jewish heritage, exploring Jewish roots beyond the capital city offers an enticing adventure. Starting from sites near Prague and extending to locations such as Pilsen in the west, Mikulov in the south, and beyond, one can unravel the rich tapestry of Czech Jewish history.
The 10 Stars Project in the Czech Republic is a nationwide endeavor connecting 10 synagogues and Jewish heritage sites dispersed throughout the country. These sites serve as showcases of the Czech Republic’s unique cultural heritage. Going beyond mere restoration and construction, the project involves the development of permanent exhibitions and a diverse array of temporary programs, including lectures, concerts, screenings, and theater performances. These initiatives aim to provide visitors with a distinctive and authentic insight into Jewish history and Judaism.
During my visit to Ustek, a picturesque small town in the St. Nad Labem Region celebrated for its well-preserved medieval center and charming houses with Gothic gables, I explored the Tk Synagogue. Founded in 1794, this synagogue is perched on a high foundation wall made from sandstone cubes, strategically positioned at the edge of a cliff promontory.
Ustek Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Marek Tousek, managing director of Magni Tour, guides tours through a meticulously restored synagogue, rabbi’s residence, and school. A highlight of this experience is the distinctive space located between the Jewish school and the teacher’s quarters. Visitors today can engage with an exhibition offering insights into life at a Jewish school during the mid-19th century.
The focal point of the “Revitalization of Jewish Monuments” project in Úštěk, however, was the extensive restoration of the rabbinical house, located opposite the synagogue. This significant renovation effort, undertaken from 2010 to 2014, was aimed at preserving this historic Jewish building.
A permanent exhibition, “The Jewish School System”—New York Jewish Travel Guide
Today, the building’s ground floor serves as a repository of knowledge, housing an exhibition that delves into the rich history of Úštěk’s Jewish community. Meanwhile, the first floor, formerly the rabbi’s quarters, features an enlightening exhibition that sheds light on both the history and essence of Jewish schools in the Czech lands.
Jewish schools represent a distinctive cultural phenomenon, their significance underscored by numerous passages in the Bible and the Talmud, as exemplified in the Pirkey Avot. The promotion of traditional education plays a crucial role within every Jewish community. Young students, typically aged five to six, embarked on their educational journey at the cheder, where they delved into the fundamentals of Hebrew, Torah texts, the Mishnah, and Jewish laws. As they reached around 15 years of age, boys progressed to the yeshiva, an institution primarily dedicated to the study of the Talmud. This traditional framework of Jewish education persisted in the Czech lands until the 19th century.
Rabbis of the Usetek Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
The disused Jewish cemetery holds a rich history dating back to the 16th century, adorned with a total of 211 gravestones scattered across its grounds. These ancient markers predominantly bear the artistic imprint of bygone eras, reflecting the styles of earlier times. However, interspersed among these historical remnants are also more contemporary gravestones from the late 19th century.
At the heart of the cemetery stands a particularly striking gravestone, showcasing the Art Nouveau style with prominence. This noteworthy monument belongs to the Heller family, with its intricate design serving as a testament to the artistic sensibilities of its time.
Jewish Cemetery: Ustek: New York Jewish Travel Guide
“Preserving History: Třebíč’s Jewish Quarter on the UNESCO World Heritage List”
Třebíč’s Jewish Quarter stands as an exceptional testament to history, revered as one of Europe’s most impeccably preserved Jewish ghettos. Its cultural and historical significance led to the inclusion of the Jewish Quarter, alongside the Jewish Cemetery and the St. Procopius Basilica, on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003.
The Rear Synagogue, erected in 1669 within the historic Jewish Quarter alongside a house constructed in 1798, stands as a remarkable testament to the area’s rich heritage. This beautiful synagogue is distinguished by its spacious and luminous interior, adorned with captivating baroque paintings gracing its walls. The upper women’s gallery within hosts a small yet enlightening exhibition showcasing aspects of Jewish culture.
After its last religious service in 1926, the Rear Synagogue faced the threat of demolition. However, it was rescued from this fate and underwent extensive renovation, reopening to the public as the Jewish Museum in 2011.Today, the synagogue serves as a venue for various cultural events, including exhibitions and concerts.
The Rear Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Within the Trebic Jewish Quarter, a remarkable collection of over one hundred buildings remains, including two synagogues, the Jewish town hall, the rabbi’s residence, the school, and the hospital. The former women’s gallery now houses a permanent exhibition dedicated to Jewish culture, featuring a wealth of valuable objects that once played a central role in the now-extinct Jewish community, tragically decimated during the Holocaust of the Second World War.
“Treasured History: The Jewish Cemetery of Trebic”
The Jewish cemetery in Trebic stands as a remarkable burial ground, not only within the Czech Republic but across Central Europe. Perched atop a hill, it hosts an impressive collection of over 3,000 graves, each adorned in diverse styles ranging from Renaissance and Baroque to Classicist. This sacred site holds the remains of approximately 11,000 individuals, serving as a poignant testament to its historical significance. Among the weathered tombstones, sometimes shrouded in moss or ivy, are inscriptions that have faded with time. The cemetery’s oldest surviving marker, dating back to the year 1625, underscores its centuries-old heritage.
“Reflections at Terezin: Honoring the Memory of Tragic History”
The Terezin Memorial, originally an 18th-century military fortress, became the Nazis’ sole concentration camp in Czech territory during World War II. Over 33,000 European Jews tragically perished within its walls. The memorial features small and large fortresses, designed based on plans from a renowned school in Meziere-en-Brenne, France. Visitors gain insights into the harsh conditions endured by those deported here.
Terezin: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Nestled in the heart of the Big Fortress, once a Jewish ghetto, is the Museum of the Terezin Concentration Camp—a poignant reminder of its tragic past. Within its walls, visitors confront chilling artifacts, including children’s drawings that testify to their resilience amidst unimaginable hardship. The museum also displays Nazi propaganda films and a diverse collection of cultural works created by prisoners, highlighting their enduring creativity in adversity. Terezin’s history intersects with notable figures such as Sigmund Freud’s sisters, Austrian Chancellor Bruno Kreisky’s relatives, and American presidential candidate John Kerry’s family members, emphasizing the profound impact of this dark chapter in history.
Jewish Star, Terezin: New York Jewish Travel Guide
“Nazi Occupation and the Fate of Prague’s Jewish Museum”
Managed by the Jewish Museum, Josefov’s museums oversee and preserve six significant Jewish landmarks within this historic area. These include the Maisel Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue, Klaus Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, and Old Jewish Cemetery. The Old New Synagogue, still active as a place of worship, requires a separate ticket for entry.
During World War II, the Prague Jewish Museum fell under the control of the Nazis—an ironic twist. Established in 1906 to safeguard artifacts from synagogues demolished during the urban clearances in Josefov at the turn of the 20th century, it was repurposed with the intent of creating a ‘museum of an extinct race.’ The Nazis gathered materials and objects from Jewish communities across Bohemia and Moravia, amassing what is possibly the world’s largest collection of sacred Jewish artifacts.
Synagogue Espagnole: New York Jewish Travel Guide
“Prague’s Historic Jewish Cemetery: A Testament to Remembrance”
The Old-New Synagogue in Prague, Europe’s oldest operational synagogue, is a prime example of early Gothic architecture, completed around 1270. It features a central chamber, an entry hall, a winter prayer hall, and a designated area for women during men-only services. Recent restoration uncovered 17th-century scriptures on its walls, and the Holy Ark, housing Torah scrolls, stands on the eastern wall. A glass case at the rear illuminates’ light bulbs next to names of departed individuals on their death anniversaries, enhancing the synagogue’s reverent atmosphere.
The Old Synagogue, with its steep roof and Gothic gables, carries the echoes of the Golem legend. According to one version, Rabbi Loew subdued the mystical creature by removing its talisman during a Sabbath service, then placed it in the synagogue attic, where some say it remains, steeped in secrecy.
Statue of Franz Kafka: New York Jewish Travel Guide
The Pinkas Synagogue, built in 1535 and used until 1941, now serves as a memorial to the 77,297 Czech victims of the Nazis. Its walls bear their names, birth dates, and dates of disappearance. Inside, poignant paintings and drawings by children from the Terezín concentration camp are displayed.
Adjacent to the Pinkas Synagogue is the entrance to Europe’s oldest surviving Jewish cemetery, established in the early 15th century. Despite closing in 1787, it remains a solemn and popular Prague attraction with approximately 12,000 weathered tombstones marking around 100,000 graves, layered due to limited space.
In Prague’s Old Jewish Cemetery, notable graves near the main gate include those of Mordechai Maisel and Rabbi Loew. The oldest tombstone, a replica of Avigdor Karo’s, dates back to 1439. Most tombstones bear the deceased’s name, father’s name, date of death (and sometimes burial), and poetic texts. Elaborate markers from the 17th and 18th centuries feature bas-reliefs, with some depicting the deceased’s occupation, such as a pair of hands marking a pianist’s grave.
A block away stands the neo-Gothic Maisel Synagogue, showcasing an exhibit on the history of Jews in Bohemia and Moravia from the 10th to the 18th centuries. The exhibit includes ceremonial silver, textiles, prints, and books. Two blocks east lie the Spanish Synagogue, renowned for its Moorish interior. It hosts an exhibit covering the story of Jews in the Czech Republic from emancipation to the present day.
For additional information,
To organize your visit to Prague, explore the Czech National Tourist Office website at www.czechtourism.com.
Story and photography by Meyer Harroch, from New York Jewish Travel Guide.com and New York Jewish Guide.com.
The author participated in a press trip sponsored by the Czech National Tourist Office.
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