A Hidden Gem: The Jewish Heritage of Curaçao

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    Curaçao, a small island covering roughly 170 square miles, is situated just off the northern coast of Venezuela. This culturally diverse paradise has been shaped by a harmonious blend of European and West African influences and is home to approximately 190,000 residents.

    Its capital city, Willemstad, proudly holds the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage Site designation, with its vibrant and colorful buildings standing as one of the nation’s most iconic landmarks. The island’s economy is heavily reliant on the tourism industry, and Curaçao fully embraces the concept of “Dushi,” epitomizing the essence of sweetness, kindness, and all things good.

    Willemstad, Curacao – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    Here’s a more concise timeline of Curacao’s Jewish history:

    Curacao’s Jewish history began in Spain, where Sephardic Jews lived alongside Christians and Moors. In 1492, the Edict of Expulsion initiated a major attack on Sephardic Jews, forcing them to choose between leaving Spain or converting to Christianity. Many sought refuge elsewhere to practice their faith freely.

    Some Jews who stayed in Spain secretly practiced Judaism in their homes until the Holy Inquisition targeted them. To escape persecution, many converted to Christianity and settled in a more tolerant Portugal.

    By the late 16th century, pressure in Portugal led them to seek a new home. During the 15th and 16th centuries, many Jews left Spain and Portugal for Amsterdam, known for its religious freedom. This connection to Amsterdam marked their initial link to Curacao, which later became a Dutch colony. Samuel Cohen became the island’s first Jew during the colonization period.

    Curacao’s Jewish Community – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The Jewish presence on Curaçao began in 1634 when Samuel Cohen arrived as a translator on a Dutch ship capturing the island from the Spaniards. The Dutch used Curaçao as a naval base but considered leaving after losing its strategic importance. Before departing, the West Indian Company (WIC) gauged interest among Dutch citizens in settling there, emphasizing agricultural opportunities. In 1651, Joao d’Yllan, a Portuguese Jew, arrived with a small group but struggled as a farmer. Later, a larger group, led by Isaac da Costa, transitioned to importing goods to sell on the island due to agricultural challenges.

    Shipping industry S.E.L Maduro & Sons – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    As the Jewish community in Curaçao continued to expand, so did their prosperity.

    To this day, the influence of the Jewish settlers in Curaçao endures, with numerous long-standing businesses in the city and its surroundings still under the ownership of their descendants.

    In the early 19th century, the Jewish community diversified into various industries.

    Prominent Sephardic families like Jesurun, Naar, and Maduro, for instance, introduced their own silver coinage and initiated the production and circulation of their paper currency. Maduro & Sons, a Jewish firm, notably played a role in the demolition of Willemstad’s city walls and received land in return for their efforts. They also achieved success in the shipping industry, with S.E.L. Maduro & Sons famously constructing the first oil tanker to travel from Maracaibo (Venezuela) to Curaçao.

    One remarkable influence of the Spanish/Portuguese-Jewish community on Curaçao can be found in the local language, Papiamentu. This Creole language, a blend of Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, and African languages, features numerous words of Hebrew origin. Additionally, the name of the island, Curaçao, is believed to be derived from the Portuguese word “curaçaos,” which means “heart.”

    The Senior family has a remarkable history that traces back to a group of Conversos in Spain who later sought refuge in the Netherlands and Brazil. Several sons of Mordechai Senior, born in Amsterdam in 1620, made their way to Curaçao. Among them was Edgar Senior, a notable descendant of this family.

    Much like many other families on the island, the seniors played a significant role in Curaçao’s history. Edgar Senior, along with his partner Haim Mendes Chumaceiro, operated a pharmacy in the city known as Botika Excelsior. It was at this pharmacy that Edgar Senior first began crafting the Senior Curaçao Liqueur, which has since become one of the country’s most renowned exports.

    Senior & Co Curacao Liqueur Factory – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The indelible marks left by the Jewish community on Curaçao are not only part of its history but also integral to its present. These influences are evident in every nook and cranny of the island, from the names of its streets to the language spoken, the architecture of its buildings, and in key industries such as finance, shipping, and the production of the globally renowned Curaçao liqueur. The enduring legacy of the Jewish community is so deeply intertwined with the island’s identity that it’s nearly impossible to imagine Curaçao without their contributions.

    “Exploring Curacao: Must-Visit Attractions”

    Mikve  Israel Emanuel Synagogue, the Jewish Museum, and Mikve

    Mikve Israel – Emanuel Synagogue, Curacao- New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The Mikvé Israel-Emanuel (MIE) Synagogue, affectionately known as the Snoa, is a historic gem and holds the distinction of being the oldest surviving synagogue and Jewish congregation in the Americas.

    Established in Curaçao in 1651, the congregation was originally named “The Hope of Israel.” Construction of the synagogue itself commenced in 1729, reached completion in 1732, and has remained in continuous use ever since. Tucked away on a serene street in the Punda neighborhood of Willemstad, the historic capital of Curaçao, the synagogue’s unassuming exterior belies the beauty within. Upon entering, you’ll encounter rows of pews, majestic chandeliers, and a resplendent mahogany bimah.

    Of note are the Hebrew inscriptions above the archways leading in and out of the synagogue courtyard, which convey heartfelt blessings: “Blessed may you be in your entrance” and “Blessed may you be in your departure.” Amen. To the right, within the black-and-white-tiled courtyard, stands the venerable synagogue building, where every Shabbat and Jewish holiday has been joyously celebrated since 1732.

    As you explore the synagogue, you’ll notice that the floor is covered with a layer of soft sand, approximately 8 inches deep, which has been imported from Suriname. This unique feature is a testament to the synagogue’s history when congregants would spread sand on the floor to muffle the sounds of their prayers, primarily for security reasons. The sand also holds deeper symbolic significance, drawing connections to the desert and the Jewish people’s 40-year journey following the exodus from Egypt. It further symbolizes God’s promise to Abraham to multiply his descendants “as the sands of the seashore.” This tradition adds a distinct charm to the synagogue, and it’s worth noting that only four synagogues in the world continue the Dutch-Portuguese tradition of sand-covered floors. The others are in Kingston, Jamaica; Saint Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands; Paramaribo, Suriname (considered a Caribbean territory despite its location in South America); and the Portuguese Synagogue of Amsterdam.

    Additionally, the Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue proudly houses 18 Torah scrolls, some of which are more than 300 years old. Several of these scrolls date back to the 1400s, suggesting that they likely accompanied the Sephardic Jewish community that fled Spain in 1492 after the Edict of Expulsion.

    Mikve Israel Emanuel Synagogue – Curacao – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    When visiting the synagogue, be sure to take in the splendor of the magnificent 150-year-old pipe organ. This beautiful and powerful instrument was generously gifted to the congregation by the Dutch government.

    Given the warm climate, it’s advisable to dress accordingly, as the synagogue doesn’t have air conditioning; instead, it relies on fans to keep the space cool. You might want to choose a seat in a breezy row to stay comfortable.

    Like many synagogues, Mikveh Israel-Emanuel has experienced the classic schism over religious observances. Initially, it was an Orthodox synagogue, but a breakaway group established the Reform Temple Emanuel in 1864. Eventually, a compromise was reached, leading to the congregations reuniting in 1964 to form the Reconstructionist Congregation Mikveh Israel-Emanuel in the original 1732 building.

    Despite a dwindling number of members, their commitment to honoring their ancestors, temple, and religion remains unwavering. Every Friday night and Saturday morning, you can experience an inclusive reconstructionist service conducted in both English and Hebrew. This meaningful service is enhanced by the presence of the grand pipe organ, originally built in 1866 and lovingly restored shortly after the congregation celebrated its 350th anniversary.

    A local from the Adventist church plays the organ on the Sabbath to avoid violating aspects of Halacha (Jewish law).

    Although the Jewish population on the island is decreasing, estimated at just 250 individuals between Mikve Israel-Emanuel and the Ashkenazi Orthodox Shaarei Tsedek, those who remain are deeply committed to Jewish life. There’s a Hebrew school and an active BBYO chapter, and extended families frequently come together for Shabbat dinners. All share a deep sense of pride in the enduring history of their beloved Snoa.

    Rabbi Georgette Kennebrae, originally from Japan with a diverse international background, leads Mikve Israel-Emanuel in Curaçao. She graduated from the Reconstructionist Rabbinical College in 2017 and is an alumna of the Wexner Graduate Fellow program (Class 26) and a Schusterman Fellow.

    Above the archway into and out of the synagogue courtyard, “Blessed may you be in your entrance” and “Blessed may you be in your departure.” – Mikve Israel Emanuel Synagogue -New York Jewish Travel Guide

    Mikvé Israel-Emanuel, like other synagogues in the Caribbean, has become a sought-after venue for destination weddings, bar mitzvahs, and bat mitzvahs, primarily for affluent families from the United States. The synagogue hosts approximately a dozen such events each year, but it’s the influx of cruise ship tourists that significantly contributes to Curaçao’s economy. In 2021, more than 146,231 cruise ship passengers visited Curaçao, with many of them including the synagogue in their itinerary and paying a $10 U.S. fee to explore its treasures.

    By graciously opening their beloved synagogue to visitors, Curaçao’s Jewish community provides a portal to history, a place for contemplation, and a tranquil refuge in a bustling world. It’s a modest yet powerful space where you can step inside, pause for a moment, and immerse yourself in the sights, sounds, and scents of history.

    Additionally, don’t miss the Jewish Cultural and Historical Museum, which offers insights into the island’s Jewish community and history. The museum showcases artifacts such as ancient Torah scrolls and spice boxes, including one of the oldest Torah scrolls, secretly brought out of Spain in the late 1300s. Housed in a two-story building, the museum is compact, easily navigable, and brimming with fascinating exhibits. Among them, one of the most intriguing narratives is that of the “Yayas” in the local Creole language, Papiamentu. These Yayas were black slaves or former slaves who cared for the children of affluent Jewish households, and their stories are thoughtfully presented in the museum.

    Jewish Cultural Historical Museum, Curacao – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The Jewish Cultural and Historical Museum offers a diverse collection of exhibits, including circumcision chairs from the 1700s and a 300-year-old mikveh at its entrance. The museum houses historical documents, original clothing, World War II memorabilia, and a section dedicated to Anne Frank. Notably, a large, silver-plated platter stands out, used for a Sephardic wedding tradition of stepping through glass. The exhibits also explore Dutch heritage, the community’s origins dating back to the Spanish Inquisition, and feature family trees, historical photos, and a letter from George Washington. The museum even displays some replica headstones from the Jewish cemetery. While compact, the museum’s exceptional exhibits make it a lasting treasure.

    Shaarei Tsedek

    In the 1920s and 1930s, Ashkenazi Jews, primarily from Central Europe, began their migration to Curaçao. Like their counterparts in the United States, they initially worked in roles such as peddling goods before eventually becoming prominent shop owners, on par with their Sephardic neighbors. In 1959, these Ashkenazi immigrants came together to establish a social center, a sports club, and their own congregational building, which they named Shaarei Tzedek, located in the Scharloo neighborhood of Willemstad.

    During the 1980s, the congregation made the decision to sell their original building and relocate to a more suburban setting. The new synagogue, featuring a striking glass dome, was not completed, and officially dedicated until 2006. Rabbi Ariel Yeshurun, originally hailing from Israel, and his wife Ruhama served as spiritual leaders of the synagogue for a remarkable 11 years before departing to assume a pulpit in North Miami Beach, Florida. It’s noteworthy that Shaarei Tsedek maintains its adherence to Ashkenazi Orthodox customs, even though Sephardi Jews also participate in its services.

    Rabbi Ref0el Silver, Shaarei Tzedek-Chabad of Curacao – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The community joyfully welcomed Rabbi Refoel Silver and his wife, Chani, along with their daughter, Chaya, to Shaarei Tzedek. Rabbi Silver and his wife have infused the synagogue with tremendous enthusiasm and energy, and the community has wholeheartedly embraced them. They have taken on the important role of serving not only the Ashkenazi and Sephardic Jewish communities but also reaching out to those who are unaffiliated, tourists, and individuals of various backgrounds on the beautiful island of Curaçao.

    The Silvers have already made a remarkable impact on Jewish life in the region, fostering religious growth among both residents and visitors. Their efforts have included hosting Rosh Hashanah services and dinners, solemnly observing Yom Kippur with the local Jewish community, and even organizing the island’s very first “Sushi and Scotch” Sukkot party. Chani Silver has initiated numerous programs, such as the inaugural challah bake that brought together around 20 Jewish women on the island, a “Mommy & Me” program, weekly lunch-and-learn sessions, and classes catering to both men and women. Additionally, Chabad’s newly established Women’s Circle held its first event under her guidance.

    Rabbi Silver attributed this growth in part to the increasing tourism on the island, especially over the past year, with more direct flights and the construction of an additional cruise ship pier. This surge in tourism has brought Jewish visitors from around the world in significant numbers. Rabbi Silver emphasized, “We are dedicated to reaching every Jew, whether they are part of families that have been here for generations or tourists who may not be very connected to their Jewish heritage. We are here to welcome and serve every single one of them.”

    A huge transparent dome that serves as the entire roof of the sanctuary – Congregation Shaarei Tzedek, Curaçao- New York Jewish Travel Guide

    A visit to Curacao’s two Jewish cemeteries provides a captivating glimpse into the island’s rich history. Among them, the Beth Haim Jewish Cemetery stands out as not only the oldest Jewish burial ground on Curacao but is also believed to be the oldest in the entire Western Hemisphere.

    Beth Haim, meaning “House of Life,” was established by the initial Jewish settlers in 1659, just after they had arrived on the island. The name reflects the Jewish belief in the eternal nature of the soul. This sacred ground houses approximately 2,500 above-ground tombstones, many of which are adorned with exquisite sculptures. The inscriptions on these tombstones are written in a variety of languages, including Portuguese, Hebrew, Spanish, English, Dutch, and French. Notably, there is even one tombstone inscribed in Yiddish.

    Beth Haim Jewish Cemetery-Curacao- New York Jewish Travel Guide

    Regrettably, the presence of an oil refinery constructed nearby has led to the deterioration of many of the ancient tombstones in the Beth Haim cemetery. The last burials conducted in this cemetery occurred in the 1950s.

    Towards the far end of the cemetery, there are two unassuming white buildings. One of them, a two-story structure, was designated for the priestly Cohens. Due to their need for ritual purity, the Cohens were prohibited from having direct contact with the deceased. Instead, they could ascend to the second floor, where they could observe the solemn funeral proceedings through a large window.

    The other building served a specific Sephardic tradition. Here, the coffin of the deceased, encircled by seven candles, would be placed on a bench in the center of the building. Mourners would then walk around the coffin seven times while reciting psalms before the burial took place.

    One notable recurring symbol found on the tombstones is a hand holding an axe, which symbolically falls a tree in its prime. This tree represents the life of the departed. In the heart-wrenching case of a child’s death (which occurred tragically often, with one in three infants not surviving), the axe would instead strike a flower, conveying the profound grief experienced across generations.

    Sometimes, the tombstones commemorate the individual’s profession, as seen in the depictions of ships for merchants. At other times, the deceased’s name is linked to their biblical namesake.

    For those interested in viewing replicas of some of the intricate tombstones, they can be found at the entrance to the Curacao Jewish Museum, located adjacent to the Mikveh Israel-Emanuel Synagogue in the Punda district.

    Symbol of a hand with an ax that chops down a tree in its prime, Beth Haim Jewish Cemetery – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    In the Jewish cemetery, you’ll find tombstones with skulls and crossbones, a symbol unrelated to pirates. Emlyn, our guide, explained that these symbols may have originated from a period when some ancestors converted to Christianity during the Inquisition.

    There’s also the modern Jewish cemetery, Beit Haim Berg Altena, established in 1880. Initially smaller in size, the Reform Congregation Temple Emanuel acquired Beit Haim Berg Altena after their separation from Mikveh Israel in 1864. Later, Mikveh Israel acquired adjacent land, and in 1964, they removed the boundary walls that once separated the two Sephardic congregations, symbolizing unity.

    Modern Jewish cemetery “Beit Haim Berg Altena” – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    Another cultural gem with Jewish origins is the Country House Landhuis Bloemhof, situated on one of the smaller plantations on the island. Historical archives reveal that the property was first sold in 1735. Today, this captivating location serves as a venue for exhibitions, lectures, and creative workshops, all set within an inspiring ambiance adorned with antique furniture. It’s worth noting that this building once served as a synagogue, and an empty cistern on the premises is believed to have functioned as a mikvah, a Jewish ritual bath.

    A drive through Willemstad’s Scharloo area, the capital, provides further insights into Curaçao’s Sephardic heritage. The vibrant, intricately designed mansions, reminiscent of wedding cakes, were formerly owned by prosperous Jewish and white Protestant residents. In the 18th century, Curaçao was a thriving port, and shipyard owners were amassing considerable wealth. Faced with newfound prosperity, they decided to construct these opulent mansions on the waterfront, allowing them to row conveniently to the nearby town center.

    The multi-colored, wedding-cake-like mansions of Scharloo in the historic Jewish neighborhood of Willemstad – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The neighborhood evolved into a hub for Curaçao’s Ashkenazi Jewish community. Ashkenazi Jews, originally hailing from Eastern Europe, made their way to the Caribbean and achieved significant prosperity as merchants. During the 19th century, these merchants engaged in a friendly rivalry, vying to possess the most opulent and magnificent mansions in the area.

    This green mansion is called “The Bride’s Cake” – New York Jewish Travel Guide

    The green mansion, known as “The Bride’s Cake,” was constructed in 1916 and currently serves as the home of the National Archives of Curaçao. Another elegant, curvaceous yellow mansion has been repurposed as the Maritime Museum, while a charming mint-green greenhouse has been transformed into a hotel.

    The upkeep of these grand residences became financially burdensome in the last century, leading their owners to abandon them and relocate to suburban areas. Today, many of these architectural treasures have undergone restoration and now house offices for international companies and banks. The Scharloo neighborhood stands as a vibrant testament to historic architecture, preserving its rich heritage for all to admire

    For more information:

    To plan a trip to Curacao, contact the Curacao Tourist Board or log on to https://www.curacao.com/en/.

    Story and photography by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide, and New York Jewish Guide.

    The author took part in a press trip sponsored by the Curacao Tourist Board.

     

     

     

     

     

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