The influence of Portuguese Jews on global history is profound, their legacy intricately woven into Portugal’s Jewish presence from the 5th to the 15th centuries. In the northern regions of Portugal, Jewish communities once thrived in various towns and cities. While the precise origins of Jewish settlers in Porto remain somewhat obscure, evidence suggests their presence as early as the High Medieval Ages, living near the cathedral and within the city’s ancient walls.
For centuries, Porto not only tolerated but actively protected its Jewish inhabitants. However, the devastating impact of the Inquisition led to the expulsion of Jews from Portugal, resulting in the near-erasure of its Jewish heritage.
As Portugal’s second-largest city, Porto boasts one of the nation’s oldest Jewish communities. Unlike Lisbon, which was extensively damaged by the 1755 earthquake, Porto largely escaped such destruction. This preservation has allowed Porto to retain its historic Jewish quarter, characterized by narrow, picturesque streets, charming balconied houses, and thoroughfares with evocative names such as “Rua Monte Judeus,” “Escadinhas do Monte dos Judeus,” and “Pátio das Escadinhas do Monte dos Judeus.”
Reviving Porto’s Jewish Heritage: The Legacy of Captain Arturo Carlos de Barros Bastos
The Escadas da Vitória, or “Escadas da Esnoga,” was once the site of Porto’s main synagogue, a vibrant center of Jewish life. Today, a plaque marks its significance, preserving the memory of a community that thrived there. Nearby, at Passeio das Virtudes, an ancient Jewish cemetery holds the remains of countless Conversos, or Marranos—Jews who were forced to convert to Christianity during the Inquisition yet continued to secretly observe their faith.
In the 1920s, Captain Arturo Carlos de Barros Bastos initiated a remarkable revival of Porto’s Jewish community. Known as “the Portuguese Dreyfus” after facing dismissal from the Army for his Jewish heritage, Captain Basto embraced Orthodox Judaism and led efforts to re-establish Jewish life in Porto. With the support of Elly Kadoorie, a wealthy Sephardic philanthropist, and land donated by Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Paris, Captain Basto oversaw the construction of the magnificent “Kadoorie” synagogue, a symbol of Jewish resilience and renewal.
Captain Basto’s vision extended beyond the synagogue. He founded a yeshiva in Porto, where more than 90 students studied for nearly a decade. His efforts stirred national attention, as nearly 10,000 families across Portugal publicly reclaimed their Jewish identity. Through his leadership, Captain Basto helped rekindle the spirit of Porto’s Jewish heritage, ensuring its legacy would endure for future generations.
The Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
The Contemporary Jewish Community
Every Friday evening, as the Jewish Sabbath begins, a harmonious blend of voices fills the air, speaking not only in Portuguese but also in English, French, Spanish, and Hebrew. This chorus reflects a thriving Jewish community in Oporto, experiencing a remarkable resurgence and offering a sanctuary for Jews seeking safety from other parts of Europe and beyond. Dr. Michael Rothwell, a board member of the Kadoorie Synagogue, told NYJTG, “The Jewish Community of Oporto has seen tremendous growth in the last three years, with membership rising from just 100 to over 300 individuals from diverse regions. What’s truly remarkable is the unity between our religious and secular members.”
He added, “The majority of our synagogue’s members are either immigrants or descendants of European immigrants who arrived in the 20th century.” This cultural mosaic highlights the vibrant and evolving nature of Oporto’s Jewish community, which continues to grow and flourish, reaffirming the city’s role as a center of Jewish life and identity.
Michael Rothwell, a member of the Porto Jewish Community Board, New York Jewish Travel Guide
Our oldest member traces their roots back to 1940s Poland, reflecting the deep historical ties within our community. We take great pride in the diversity of our families, hailing from countries like Egypt, Turkey, France, Israel, and beyond. In fact, our community represents a vibrant mosaic of 22 nationalities, with the largest group being French and the Israeli population growing the fastest. A remarkable example of our international presence is the group of 100 French students from Marseilles studying dentistry at the University of Porto
Preserving Heritage: The Story of Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue
The Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue stands as the largest synagogue in the Iberian Peninsula, a stunning blend of Art Deco and Moroccan architectural styles. Its interior is adorned with exquisite Azulejos tiles, showcasing the finest in Portuguese craftsmanship. The synagogue’s Hebrew name, “Mekor Haim,” meaning “Source of Life,” symbolizes its enduring significance, while the “Kadoorie” name honors the Jewish family from Hong Kong who generously funded its construction in memory of Laura Kadoorie, whose ancestors were Portuguese Jews. Though Sir Elly Kadoorie, Laura’s husband, passed away in 1944, he remains the honorary president of the Israeli Community of Oporto.
Ilan Dahan, a synagogue member and soon-to-be owner of the kosher restaurant Casa de Hummus, speaks to the synagogue’s historical and architectural value: “We have a magnificent synagogue, with over 80 percent of its original structure from 1938. It survived World War II and stands as a testament to our dedication to preserving its legacy.”
The Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Beyond its role as a place of worship, the Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue serves as a vibrant community hub. It includes study rooms, a library, a boardroom, communal dining areas, a kitchen, and a patio where a sukkah is erected for Sukkot. On-site apartments for the rabbi and shamash (caretaker) ensure the seamless operation of religious services. For younger members, a ping-pong table in the hallway adds a playful touch during Shabbat gatherings. The synagogue’s first-floor museum educates visitors on Jewish history, culture, and the seven Noahide laws, which apply to non-Jews. Attracting Portuguese students and tourists from around the world, the museum serves as an important educational resource, promoting Jewish heritage and universal values.
Each Sabbath, the synagogue holds a regular minyan and kiddush. Despite not being a traditional neighborhood synagogue, many congregants travel from far distances, yet the synagogue adheres strictly to Orthodox practices. Dr. Michael Rothwell highlighted the synagogue’s diversity, with members from Conservative, Orthodox, and Reform backgrounds. He remarked, “We welcome people from all religious spectrums. Every member brings something unique to our community, and this diversity is key to our success in working together.”
The Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Embracing Diversity: Jewish Life in Porto
The Porto Rabbinate, recognized by Israel’s top religious authority, oversees a vibrant and growing community. Its Religious Committee includes Orthodox members from Golders Green, London, ensuring adherence to traditional Jewish practices. “The synagogue features a modern, well-maintained Mikveh in constant use,” and the Jewish Community of Porto offers weekly Torah classes, as well as free childcare on Sundays for children up to 6 years old.
Currently, Porto boasts a kosher restaurant within the Hotel da Música and a kosher store. Affordable kosher meals, inspected by the rabbi and the community’s mashgiach (supervisor), ensure that all food follows strict dietary laws.
The community also provides essential support services, including a Chevra Kadisha for burial preparation, as well as burial plots in Israel and a new cemetery in Porto. Though there is no notable anti-Semitism in the city, security remains a priority, with guards stationed at the synagogue’s entrance year-round. Reflecting on Porto’s welcoming environment, Ilan Dahan remarked, “Anti-Semitism is increasing in Europe, but Porto feels like a sanctuary of peace, embracing Jewish presence.”
As the Jewish Community of Porto continues to promote the city internationally, it anticipates a growing Jewish population, especially from France and Turkey. Porto is emerging as a thriving hub for Jewish life, celebrated for its security, acceptance, and the harmonious coexistence of its diverse members.
The Kadoorie Mekor Haim Synagogue: New York Jewish Travel Guide
In 2015, a significant law similar to one in Spain was passed, granting citizenship to Sephardic Jews of Portuguese descent to address the expulsions and persecutions their ancestors faced in the late 15th century. Dr. Michael Rothwell told NYJTG that while many citizenship requests have been rejected, approximately 20,000 have been approved in Porto. Most, about 70 percent, are of Turkish origin, with others coming from Europe, the Middle East, Asia, and South America.
Moreover, Porto has become a highly sought-after tourist destination. In 2019, it welcomed a record high of 3.7 million visitors, with consistent double-digit growth. Its rich cultural and artistic heritage, now renowned globally, has added to its allure. The Historic Center of the City has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, and Porto has been voted the best European destination three times. Visitors can enjoy leisurely walks through Porto’s charming sights, where a day of sightseeing is easily filled. If time permits, spending two or three days in the city is a rewarding experience that passes by too quickly.
Porto: What to See
Lello Bookshop (Livraria Lello): Discover the Harry Potter Connection
In the 1990s, J.K. Rowling, famed author of the Harry Potter series, lived in Porto while teaching English and frequently visited Livraria Lello, one of the city’s most iconic bookstores. It’s said that the bookstore’s stunning design, with its intricately carved wooden ceilings, grand staircases, and elaborate bookcases, served as inspiration for the Hogwarts Library in her magical world. Due to its popularity, expect queues to visit this enchanting space. Tickets are priced at 4 euros and can be applied toward any book purchase. You can buy tickets at a red booth outside, where you can also safely store your bags during the visit.
Lello Bookshop: The Livraria Lello: – New York Jewish Travel Guide
Savoring the Soulful Sounds: Exploring Porto’s Fado Bars
At the heart of Portugal’s rich musical heritage lies fado, a genre that translates to “fate” in English. Fado is renowned for its slow, melancholic melodies, evoking deep emotions of longing and nostalgia. Skilled musicians accompany these soulful songs using the viola, a Spanish-style guitar, and the distinctive pear-shaped Portuguese guitar, or guitarra. To immerse yourself in the magic of live fado, visit one of Porto’s charming fado houses. For an unforgettable experience, don’t miss a performance by the talented fado singer Fernanda Moreira, whose voice will leave a lasting impression during your stay in the city.
Best Fado Show with Fernanda Moreira & Musicians—New York Jewish Travel Guide
São Bento Train Station: A Masterpiece of Tile Art and History
Recognized as one of the most beautiful railway stations in the world, São Bento Train Station boasts an exterior that echoes the elegance of Belle Époque Parisian architecture. Yet, it is the interior that truly enchants visitors. The grand lobby is adorned with an extraordinary collection of 20,000 decorative tiles, meticulously painted by the artist Jorge Colaço over a span of 11 years. These tiles vividly depict scenes from Portuguese history, daily life, and transportation, making São Bento a must-visit for art aficionados and train enthusiasts alike.
São Bento Train Station: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Exploring Porto’s Historic Ribeira District: A Must-Do Experience
A visit to Porto’s Ribeira district is a must for anyone exploring the city. Nestled along the Douro River, this historic area has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991. While it’s a popular spot for tourists, its charm is undeniable. Take a Rabelo boat ride to cross the river and enjoy stunning views of the Luz I, D. Maria II, and Arrábida bridges—perfect for capturing memorable photos. Don’t miss the Bacalhoeiros Wall, the Casa do Infante Museum, Rua da Reboleira, and Cubo Square. Each of these landmarks offers a glimpse into the district’s rich history and vibrant atmosphere
Ribeira: New York Jewish Travel Guide
Crossing the Ponte Luís I Bridge: Porto’s Iconic Vantage Point
A visit to Porto isn’t complete without crossing the Ponte Luís I Bridge, one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. This striking bridge not only enhances the city’s skyline but also provides breathtaking views of both Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. Whether you’re heading to Vila Nova de Gaia to explore its renowned Port wine cellars or simply to enjoy the stunning vistas of Porto, the Ponte Luís I Bridge is an essential stop.
With numerous bridges spanning Porto and its neighboring city, Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll be treated to a variety of scenic perspectives. The Ponte Luís I Bridge offers some of the best views. Take a leisurely stroll along the Ribeirinha promenade, which runs alongside the Douro River, and pass by charming cafes and restaurants. Begin your journey near São Francisco Church and meander toward the river, soaking in the city’s enchanting atmosphere along the way.
For further details,
To organize your trip to Portugal, reach out to Visit Portugal or visit:
https://www.visitportugal.com/en
For information on Jewish tourism in Portugal, explore:
https://www.pathsoffaith.com/en
Story and photographs by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide.com, and New York Jewish Guide.com
The author participated in a press trip sponsored by Visit Portugal.
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