The Alentejo, a magnificent region in Portugal, is situated between the Algarve and central Lisbon. This expansive, sparsely populated area encompasses over 30 percent of Portugal’s land and is known for its charming rolling hills and historic fortified towns. In Portuguese, “Alentejo” means “beyond the Tagus River,” and it proudly holds the distinction of being the world’s largest cork producer. The countryside is adorned with sprawling cork tree forests, where the bark is carefully harvested once every nine years, and the tree trunks are marked with white paint, indicating the last harvest. The region exudes a rustic, unspoiled beauty, featuring vast undulating plains, abundant cork tree groves, and numerous vineyards.

The government has earmarked approximately $6 million for the Portuguese Jewish Network—Sefarad Routes, a state-funded initiative dedicated to preserving and commemorating sites associated with the country’s rich Jewish heritage. This project currently covers approximately 30 municipalities in the central and northern regions of Portugal, including notable towns like Castelo de Vide, Elvas, and Evora.

Old Medieval Bridge, Marvao, New York Jewish Travel Guide

“From Tragedy to Reconciliation: Castelo de Vide’s Journey with its Jewish Heritage”Nestled amidst picturesque landscapes, Castelo de Vide greets visitors with clusters of whitewashed houses ascending towards a castle perched on a hill. This enchanting town boasts a rich history, highlighted by the discovery, some thirty years ago, of what is believed to be a medieval synagogue, shedding light on its Jewish heritage. The town’s streets reflect this legacy, with names such as Rua da Judiaria (Street of Jews) and Rua Nova (New Street), where Jews who had converted to Christianity once resided. Many of the town’s houses still retain markings or mezuzah slots on their doors, offering tangible reminders of their former Jewish inhabitants. Notably, on the right doorpost of one such residence, visitors can observe small indentations, roughly 10 centimeters in size. In Jewish tradition, before entering a house, a Jew would touch the mezuzah and then kiss their hand as an expression of faith.

The history of Castelo de Vide is deeply intertwined with its proximity to the Spanish border. During the Spanish Expulsion of 1492, the town became a haven for Jewish refugees, with approximately 4,000 Spanish-Jewish individuals finding refuge here. Before this influx, the town had a small Jewish community among its 800 inhabitants. These refugees crossed the border, passing through the Old Roman Bridge in Marvao, where tolls were collected from them. Today, a plaque beside this ancient bridge, dating back 2,000 years, commemorates this significant exodus. Ruben Obadiah, the communications manager of the Regional Agency of Tourism Promotion of Alentejo, explained, “The Jewish Community decided to designate this location as a memorial site for the Portagem Bridge, a tribute to the 500 years since the expulsion of the Jews from Portugal.”

In the year 1497, Castelo de Vide’s Jewish community endured a tragic event. They were forcibly marched downhill from Rua da Judiaria to Rua da Fonte, where the town’s fountain became the site of their coerced conversion through baptism. This haunting episode left a lasting imprint on the town’s collective memory for centuries.

Fast forward to 1986, and Mario Soares, the former president of Portugal, stood at this very location to extend an official apology to the Jewish people. His gesture marked a pivotal moment in acknowledging the painful history and promoting reconciliation.

Today, Portugal demonstrates its progressive stance by offering citizenship to the descendants of those Conversos who fled the country during that dark period, provided they can trace their Sephardic ancestry. This inclusive policy extends a welcoming embrace to descendants from around the world, spanning the Mediterranean, Turkey, Brazil, Israel, India, and the United States. It reflects Portugal’s commitment to addressing historical injustices and fostering connections with its Sephardic Jewish heritage.

A plaque beside the 2,000-year-old bridge commemorates the painful exodus. Castelo de Vide, New York Jewish Travel Guide

The municipality has undertaken a thoughtful approach to preserving the historical significance of the synagogue, transforming it into a modern and impressive museum. Serving as a poignant memorial to the town’s Jewish community, which endured the hardships of forced conversions in 1497 and subsequent persecution during the Inquisition.

The museum encompasses several significant elements, including the original synagogue itself, featuring separate areas for men and women, a remarkable wooden tabernacle, a 14th-century stone ark designed to house Torah scrolls, and ancient baths. A particularly intriguing artifact on display is a testament to the resilience of Jewish customs during challenging times. In adherence to Jewish tradition, lamps or candles are customarily lit every Friday at sunset to observe the Sabbath. However, openly practicing these rituals during the Inquisition was perilous. To maintain their traditions clandestinely, Jews ingeniously lit candles inside earthen pots with small openings. This enabled them to discreetly adhere to their customs.

Visitors to the museum can marvel at one of these earthen pots, serving as a tangible reminder of the struggles faced by the New Christians, those forced to convert to Catholicism, and their unwavering dedication to preserving their heritage amidst adversity.

Shema Israel Prayer, Castelo de Vide Museum, New York Jewish Travel Guide

These Anusim, or secret Jews, faced the challenge of appearing to adhere to the dietary rules of their new religion, which included consuming pork, a non-kosher meat. However, these resourceful individuals devised a clever method of using lamb meat to create sausages that could pass as pork. This ingenuity allowed them to maintain an appearance of compliance with the dietary restrictions of their new faith.

The religious practices of their new faith also involved cooking with lard, the fat from the pig’s abdomen. To avoid persecution and detection, Jewish women displayed remarkable ingenuity by frying onions in olive oil and infusing them with herbs and spices that adeptly masked any deviation from the norm.

In a room within the synagogue, there’s a somber reminder of the New Christians, who suffered during the Inquisition for secretly practicing Judaism. Among them is Garcia de Orta, a renowned Portuguese botanist and physician, known for his work “Coloquios dos Simples e Drogas e Cousas medicinais da India” (Conversations on the Simples and Drugs of India). He ventured to Goa, India, in 1534, where he lived and studied until his death in 1568. Despite his public adherence to Christianity, it was believed he practiced Judaism in secret. Tragically, in the same year, his sister was burned at the stake for being a secret Jew, and Garcia’s remains were exhumed and burned with an effigy. Portugal and India have erected memorials to honor his exceptional contributions to tropical medicine, acknowledging his enduring legacy in both countries.

An intriguing tale revolves around Esther Cohen, an elderly woman hailing from Netanya, Israel. Her family’s roots can be traced back to Castelo de Vide, where they resided before fleeing to Constantinople in the early 16th century.

Esther’s family safeguarded a precious relic—a pair of keys that had been passed down through generations. These keys were the keys to her family’s former home in Castelo de Vide, and they had remained in her family’s possession for over five centuries. Today, these keys hold a place of honor, displayed for all to see in the synagogue museum, a testament to a family’s enduring connection to a historical past.

Fountain in Castelo de Vide: New York Jewish Travel Guide

“Commemorating Dr. Garcia de Orta: A Tribute at Castelo de Vide’s Fountain”

Mayor Antonio Pita of Castelo de Vide enthusiastically announced progress on three ongoing projects dedicated to preserving the rich history of the synagogue, which has already drawn over 30,000 visitors.

The first project, dubbed “Inquisition House,” will recount the harrowing saga of Inquisition persecution, chronicling the plight of 300 families who endured imprisonment, persecution, and tragic fates.

In response to visitor needs, the municipality intends to establish a kosher hotel and provide tailored services for observant travelers.

The second project entails an extensive genealogical study tracing the lineage of New Christian descendants and documenting their global dispersion. This endeavor aims to uncover their family histories and current locations.

Lastly, the third project involves the establishment of a dedicated space for the House of Dr. Garcia de Orta near the villa’s fountain. This area will honor the legacy of Dr. Garcia de Orta, commemorating his significant contributions in a historically significant setting.

“Evora’s Jewish Legacy: A Treasure Trove of History”

Located in the southern region of Portugal, Evora stands out as an enchanting tourist destination. This picturesque city exudes the quintessential Portuguese charm and boasts a rich tapestry of historical monuments. However, it is far from being a dormant relic solely reliant on its illustrious past. Evora is a vibrant and dynamic city, home to a significant student population attending one of the world’s oldest universities. While it may not enjoy the instant recognition of larger Portuguese cities, Evora is an essential stop for those embarking on a Jewish heritage tour in Portugal.

With its maze-like narrow streets, iconic landmarks, and sun-drenched white houses, Evora remains a living testament to its history. Remarkably, it survived the devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755 and has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 1986. The city’s historic center showcases architectural influences that have left an indelible mark on Portuguese architecture, especially in Brazil.

During the medieval era, Evora ranked as Portugal’s second-largest city and was home to one of the most extensive Jewish quarters, with around 150 Jewish communities. Within a compact network of streets and alleys, one could find two synagogues, a Jewish school, a hospital, a mikveh (ritual bath), and even a leprosarium (leprosy hospital). The Public Library houses a rare treasure—a renowned work titled “Almanach Perpetuum” by Jewish scholar Abraham Zacuto, which was originally published in 1496. His work was later translated by Master José Neighbor and became the Nautical Guide Evora I in 1516. Evora’s profound Jewish heritage and historical significance make it an indispensable destination for anyone interested in exploring Portugal’s cultural tapestry.

Almanach Perpetuum by Abraham Zacuto, New York Jewish Travel Guide

“Exploring Évora: Must-See Attractions and Landmarks”

Giraldo Square, formerly housing the Portuguese Inquisition Court, boasts a central fountain adorned with eight spouts symbolizing the nearby streets. On the north side stands the magnificent Santo Anto Church, while quaint cafes and unique boutiques adorn the eastern edge, contributing to a lively atmosphere.

Evora Cathedral: Exemplifying Gothic architecture at its finest, the Evora Cathedral mirrors the fortified cathedral in Lisbon, enchanting visitors with its majestic presence and elaborate craftsmanship.

The Roman Temple of Evora: Recognized as the Templo de Diana, this emblematic landmark in the city carries profound historical importance and has secured its place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Nestled in the core of the historic district, it dates back to the first century and is thought to have been erected in homage to Augustus, the inaugural emperor of the Roman Empire.

The Aqueduct of Água de Prata: Among Évora’s remarkable attractions stands the 16th-century aqueduct, spanning nearly 20 kilometers to provide water to the city. Sourced from abundant springs in Nossa Senhora da Graça do Divor, situated 18 kilometers to the north, this engineering wonder boasts imposing arches outside and within the city walls. Beneath these arches, houses and shops are nestled, shaping a distinctive urban panorama.

Praça do Giraldo, Evora: New York Jewish Travel Guide

Elvas: Unveiling Portugal’s Hidden Gem

Nestled on the arid plains of the Portuguese-Spanish border, a mere 12 kilometers (7 miles) away, Elvas emerges as a historical treasure trove waiting to be discovered. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2012, its allure lies in the meticulously preserved star-shaped defensive walls and surrounding forts. Despite its eastern location, Elvas often remains overlooked by tourists, yet those who venture here are greeted with a captivating blend of history and beauty. Recent UNESCO recognition has sparked interest from both sides of the border, drawing visitors to explore its medieval charm. Wander through cobbled streets, visit ancient churches, and savor the flavors of family-run restaurants, each echoing the timeless essence of Elvas.

Elvas, a scenic and picturesque town – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Jewish Quarter, Elvas – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Elvas’s Jewish Legacy: A Journey Through Time

In the midst of the Middle Ages, Elvas flourished with a vibrant Jewish community, evidenced by the establishment of two distinct quarters: the Old Quarter (Praça da Republica) and the New Quarter, nestled west of the Alcáçova area, persisting even amidst Christian dominance. Today, the echoes of this rich heritage resonate within the walls of the Elvas Jewish History House, once a bustling 16th-century municipal butcher shop. Recent archaeological endeavors have unveiled the remnants of one of the town’s ancient synagogues, currently undergoing meticulous restoration to serve as an educational nexus illuminating Elvas’s Jewish history and traditions. Within its sacred space, 12 columns, each representing the 12 tribes of Israel, stand as enduring symbols of the community’s profound cultural roots. This sanctuary offers visitors a rare opportunity to delve into the past, bearing witness to the synagogue’s transformation from a sacred place of worship to a humble slaughterhouse, as evidenced by the poignant tiles adorning its entrance, encapsulating the essence of its historical odyssey.

Public Market Butcher “formerly a synagogue”, Evora – New York Jewish Travel Guide

“Discovering Elvas: Must-See Attractions”

Elvas Castle: Step back in time and explore the well-preserved Elvas Castle. Spend an hour or two wandering through its historic halls, and don’t miss the opportunity to climb to the battlements. From there, you’ll be treated to breathtaking panoramic views, including vistas stretching all the way to the Spanish town of Badajoz, offering a unique perspective on both Portuguese and Spanish landscapes.

Museum de Arte Contemporânea: Immerse yourself in the world of contemporary art at the Museum de Arte Contemporânea, home to the impressive Antonio Cachola collection. Marvel at works by modern and contemporary Portuguese artists, and be sure to admire the ancient blue and white tiles adorning the museum’s auditorium, adding a touch of tradition to the contemporary art scene.

Praça da Republica: Experience the heart of Elvas at Praça da Republica, the town’s central square brimming with charm. Take a leisurely stroll along the cobblestone streets converging here, and soak in the sights of the grand cathedral facade to the north and the inviting loggia of the old city hall to the south. Don’t miss the opportunity to admire the unique paving of the square, known as calçada portuguesa, which blends traditional materials in a modern 3D pattern, adding to the square’s timeless appeal. Be sure to visit the tourist office located here for insider tips and information to enhance your Elvas adventure.

For more information:

To plan your trip to Portugal, visit Visit Portugal’s website: Visit Portugal

For additional details on Jewish tourism in Portugal, explore the Paths of Faith website: Paths of Faith

This story and its photography were contributed by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide, and New York Jewish Guide.

Please note that the author participated in a press trip sponsored by Visit Portugal.