La Chaux-de-Fonds discreetly conceals its wealth, nestled slightly off the beaten tourist paths. Unveiling the charm hidden within its austere grid of streets can be a satisfying challenge. However, once you peel back this façade, you’ll step into a world where time unfurls like the intricate mechanisms of a finely crafted bevel-face chronograph. Swiss watchmaking enjoys legendary status, and the towns of Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds are the beating heart of this horological heritage. Although Le Locle is notably smaller than its neighbor, La Chaux-de-Fonds, it mirrors the same urban structure and architectural aesthetics.
The origins of this rich horological heritage can be traced back to the mid-17th century in Le Locle. By the year 1870, approximately 4,500 individuals were directly engaged in the burgeoning clock-and-watch industry, comprising nearly half of the town’s total population.
In contrast, the growth of the Jewish community in La Chaux-de-Fonds began with the significant milestone of the 1857 abolition of restrictions on Jewish settlements. This marked the start of their presence and influence in the town’s history.
La Chaux-de-Fonds, at one point, was the residence of some of the most distinguished luminaries in the watchmaking industry. In the year 1900, it stood as the fourth most populous town in Switzerland, surpassed in Jewish population only by Zurich, Basel, and Geneva. These Jewish residents not only left an enduring legacy in the field of horology but also made remarkable and lasting contributions to the worlds of sports, arts, and culture.

Photo Courtesy of City Planning – New York Jewish Travel Guide
Nestled within the breathtaking Jura Mountains of Switzerland’s Neuchatel canton, La Chaux-de-Fonds graces the landscape not far from the French border. This remarkable city boasts the distinction of being the highest-elevation city in all of Europe, and it proudly holds the position as the fourth-largest French-speaking city in Switzerland. Perched on a plateau that soars to 1,000 meters above sea level, it has earned its place as one of the most remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
La Chaux-de-Fonds is renowned as a city intertwined with the art of watchmaking, a fact that I find particularly captivating. It’s aptly known as the “Watchmaking Town,” serving as the esteemed home to luxury watchmakers like Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega, and Girard-Perregaux, alongside a myriad of supporting businesses that thrive in this horological hub.
Upon exploration, you’ll quickly notice that the city’s layout is meticulously planned, resembling the grid pattern of Manhattan in New York. Amidst this architectural symphony, you’ll encounter charming Swiss-style buildings, such as four-story apartment complexes adorned with windows on the upper floors. These windows served to illuminate the workplaces of watchmakers while also providing accommodation for skilled factory workers in a series of picturesque, colorful apartment buildings.
Wolfgang Carrier, affectionately known as “Wolfie” among the locals (a moniker he acquired during his time in New York City), proved to be the most remarkably knowledgeable tour guide I had the pleasure of encountering. His unique blend of expertise not only encompassed Jewish history but also extended to his fervent passion for watches and his valuable connections within the industry. This made him a truly exceptional guide.
In addition to Wolfie’s insights, Mr. Bertrand Leitenberg, the president of the Jewish Community, provided an extensive wealth of knowledge about Jewish history and the vibrant local community.

Mr. Bertrand Leitenberg and Mr. Wolfgang Carrier-New York Jewish Travel Guide
We are a close-knit community, mostly composed of seniors, with just a few children aged 6 to 10. According to Mr. Carrier, the majority of our members have Ashkenazi roots.
He shared with the New York Jewish Travel Guide that there are currently only about 70 Jews living in the entire Neuchatel district. Our community has a stable membership with only a few new arrivals each year.
Mr. Carrier also shed light on the historical presence of Jewish families in this region, revealing that they were active in various businesses and seized the opportunity to establish themselves in the watch industry. The motivations behind Jewish immigration to this area make for a fascinating study. During that era, Jewish families, particularly from Alsace, held a remarkable 60% share in the watchmaking industry, exerting a significant influence on the growth of Swiss watchmaking akin to the impact of the Huguenots. By the turn of the century, in 1900, the Jewish community in La Chaux-de-Fonds had grown to approximately 1,000 members. Mr. Carrier noted that “in 1850, the lace industry, not watchmaking, was the dominant trade in Le Locle, which boasted 3,000 residents, including 430 watchmakers and 750 lace makers.”
In these two towns, with a combined population of around 50,000, a staggering 14,000 individuals commute daily from nearby French towns to work in the watchmaking industry and related services. The lure of higher wages, often triple those across the border, attracts them here. However, within the broader Swiss watch industry, which employs approximately 60,000 individuals, around 25,000 of them reside in our region. It is estimated that 6,000 to 7,000 of these workers hail from France.

Synagogue de La Chaux-de-Fonds-New York Jewish Travel Guide
Mr. Leitenberg further elaborated on the size of our Jewish community in this region, stating, “We have only one synagogue, and Rabbi Michel Margulies from Alsace has faithfully served our community for over 30 years.” While we’ve been welcoming Sephardic Jews who arrived in the 1970s, our community predominantly consists of Ashkenazi members.
During the period from 1960 to 1973, we were fortunate to have Rabbi Isaac Roush from Morocco as one of our spiritual leaders. He had extensive connections to Jewish activities in Lausanne, Geneva, and Bern. Our community warmly extends an invitation to all for our Passover Seder held in the synagogue. Regardless of whether one follows Orthodox or conservative traditions, everyone is welcome.
The cuisine is consistently kosher and meticulously crafted by a seasoned Israeli chef with prior experience running an Israeli restaurant. All our meat is carefully sourced from Lausanne, a location less than an hour away, and it undergoes scrupulous supervision by our Rabbi to ensure strict adherence to halacha (Jewish law).
The population of La Chaux-de-Fonds has been on a gradual decline due to several factors. This trend can be attributed to a combination of factors, including rising taxes, an extended winter season with heavy snowfall, and labor market changes brought about by the gradual introduction of machinery that is replacing manual labor industries.
However, in contrast to this demographic decline, La Chaux-de-Fonds has experienced a noticeable increase in tourism. Travelers from Europe, as well as members of the press, media, and journalists, are increasingly drawn to the city. They come to explore the world of watchmaking, marvel at the unique Art Nouveau architecture, and visit “La Maison Blanche,” the residence of the renowned architect Le Corbusier, who was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1887. This architectural gem attracts numerous tourists and architects, particularly from Japan and the USA. Moreover, the region also sees a surge in winter activities, including cross-country and downhill skiing, which appeals to a considerable number of Swiss visitors.

Synagogue de La Chaux-de-Fonds-New York Jewish Travel Guide
Constructed 125 years ago, this Neo-Romanesque brick edifice still serves as a place of worship and holds the distinction of being the largest synagogue in Switzerland when it was erected in 1896. An iconic Swiss landmark, it underwent a meticulous restoration process in 1981 and 1982. This architectural masterpiece was the creation of the same Alsatian architect responsible for designing the Strasbourg synagogue in France.
At its main entrance, one can prominently find the words: “Hear, Israel, the Eternal is our God; the Eternal is One.” The façade is characterized by the prominent display of the two tables of the law, while the arches are adorned with meticulously crafted decorations, painted against a backdrop of radiant gold. These artistic elements are enriched by the Hebrew inscription, which eloquently states, “The fear of the Lord is the beginning of expertise.” According to Mr. Leitenberg, there are plans to name the street outside the synagogue “Le Parvis du Grand Rabin Wolff” in tribute to Rabbi Jules Wolff, who dedicated his faithful service to the community from 1896 to 1955.
The community takes great care in maintaining the synagogue, and government assistance is sought exclusively for significant renovations, such as the replacement of the roof when they are deemed essential. Being accessible to non-Jewish visitors, it attracts numerous individuals who come to appreciate its beauty, delve into its rich history, and grasp its profound significance. Regrettably, many of the younger generations are unaware of the existence of such a magnificent synagogue in this town.

The entrance of Synagogue de La Chaux-de-Fonds, New York Jewish Travel Guide
Today, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, antisemitism is nearly non-existent. However, Mr. Woolfe noted that in the past, there were significant tensions between Jewish and non-Jewish watchmakers. Fierce competition occasionally led non-Jewish watchmakers to call for the expulsion of their Jewish counterparts.
Our next visit was “The Israelite Cemetery,” founded in the commune of Les Eplatures in 1872. What sets this Jewish cemetery apart from non-Jewish cemeteries is its absence of Judaic symbols and secular ornamentation. Despite the dwindling number of Jews in the area and the decreasing frequency of funeral ceremonies, the cemetery remains in use.
Mr. Leitenberg explained, “We are still able to bury Jewish individuals in this cemetery.” He also mentioned that there is a designated area nearby for non-Jews who wish to be buried alongside their Jewish family members. For example, if a Jewish woman has a husband who is not of the Jewish faith but is actively involved in the community, there is a clearly defined space for them. Thanks to the support of several contributors, the cemetery is kept in excellent condition and well-maintained.
If you’re passionate about architecture or 19th-century urban design, La Chaux-de-Fonds should definitely be on your Swiss travel itinerary.
Le Corbusier’s La Maison Blanche: In 1902, Charles Edouard Jeanneret, later known as the renowned architect Le Corbusier, began his career as an engraver at the local art school. After collaborating on various projects with architect René Chapallaz, he established his own firm and designed La Maison Blanche, also known as “The White House,” for his parents in 1912. The Association Maison Blanche acquired this house in 2000 and opened it to the public in 2005. Today, it operates as a heritage museum, showcasing period furnishings. It is a must-visit for architecture enthusiasts, offering valuable insights into Le Corbusier’s early works and architectural evolution. In 1917, he went on to build La Villa Turque, or “The Turkish Villa,” for the prominent Jewish watchmaker family, the Schwobs, before relocating to Paris.
La Chaux-de-Fonds has earned recognition from Switzerland Tourism as one of the eight most significant cities on the Art and Architecture Theme Route, thanks to its exceptional architectural heritage.

Art Nouveau decorations with a Jewish star in the hallway-the New York Jewish Travel Guide
Combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, the city of La Chaux-de-Fonds boasts magnificent architectural features. Its streets are adorned with stunning Art Nouveau decorations, including intricately designed stairwells, stained glass windows, balconies, and exquisite Sapin-style jewels seamlessly integrated into the city’s structures. One of the delightful surprises during our visit was the discovery of a Star of David incorporated into a mural on a stairwell in an Art Nouveau residence.
Spending a few days exploring this city is a must for anyone eager to dive into its rich history in Switzerland’s watchmaking industry and marvel at the stunning homes and buildings created by renowned architects.
For those planning a trip to Switzerland, reach out to Switzerland Tourism or visit their website at myswitzerland.com.
Discover the Swiss Travel System at mystsnet.com and consider flying with Swiss at swiss.com.
For more information on La Chaux-de-Fonds and the Swiss watchmaking industry, contact Mr. Wolfgang Carrier at carrierwf@bluewin.ch.
This story was contributed by Meyer Harroch of the New York Jewish Travel Guide and the New York Jewish Guide. The author was part of a press trip sponsored by Switzerland Tourism.
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