Beth Shalom Temple, also known as “El Patronato,” is the largest Jewish congregation and community center in Havana, Cuba. Established in 1953 in the Vedado neighborhood, it became the center of Jewish life on the island. Designed by architect Aquiles Apablanca, the Gran Sinagoga features symbols of the twelve tribes of Israel and a modernist arch. In 1981, much of the building was sold to the state and converted into the Bertolt Brecht Cultural Center, leaving only part of the structure in Jewish hands today. Despite this, Beth Shalom remains a symbol of faith and resilience in Cuba’s Jewish community.

El Patronato (Beth Shalom), New York Jewish Travel Guide

 Revitalizing Beth Shalom Synagogue

By 1999, the synagogue was in a state of severe disrepair, a consequence of the decline in activity and the migrations of the Cuban Jewish community between the 1960s and 1980s. However, thanks to the efforts of key figures in the community, including Dr. José Miller Z’L and Adela Dworin Z’L, as well as financial support from the JDC (American Joint Distribution Committee), Cuban Jewish families in South Florida, and other U.S.-based donors, a comprehensive restoration of the building was undertaken. The restoration, which spanned several years, resulted in the synagogue’s current appearance and solidified its status as the headquarters of the Cuban Jewish community.

The synagogue operates across two buildings. One serves as the sanctuary, housing religious artifacts, while just around the corner and down a flight of stairs is the community center. Within this center is the Marcus Matterin Library, a collection of approximately 14,000 books in various languages. Although the library has not yet been digitized, its holdings cover topics including world history, Judaism, Cuban history, and general literature. Named in honor of Abraham Marcus Matterin Z’L, a prominent Jewish intellectual in Cuban society, the library honors his significant role in preserving and managing the collection.

Beyond the library, the community center includes offices, a social hall, conference rooms, and displays of Jewish artifacts donated by foreign visitors, covering nearly every available surface. The community also continues its educational mission through “Majon Albert Einstein,” a Jewish studies school that serves both youth and adults in the Havana Jewish community.

“Majon Albert Einstein” at El Patronato (Beth Shalom), capturing a moment at the heart of the vibrant Jewish community in Havana, New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Center is home to the local federation, a pharmacy dispensing scarce medical supplies free of charge to Jews, gentiles, and even the Havana general hospital. In the lobby, a framed note written by Steven Spielberg in 2002 hangs amid other memories.

I had the privilege of joining The Jews of Cuba: A Marriage of Culture with Jewish Heritage Travel, a thoughtfully crafted journey that offered an in-depth look into the rich history and vibrant traditions of Cuba’s Jewish community. Led by Miriam Levinson, a native of Cuba with decades of expertise, the trip provided an authentic and heartfelt exploration of the country’s unique Jewish heritage, deeply informed by her profound knowledge and personal connection to her homeland.

Miriam pointed to a sign at the synagogue’s entrance, written in Spanish, that reads, “Let the hostages come home now.” She mentioned that directly across the street is a media organization, known for its opposition to Israel, and they see this sign every day—”Bring them home.”

“In Cuba, we’re open about our Judaism,” she said. “In many parts of the world—especially in cities like Paris, London, and other European capitals—synagogues are often discreet, sometimes even hidden, so you need to know exactly where to look. But that’s not the case in Cuba. There’s no security at the synagogue entrance, and on Friday nights, you can simply walk in—no one asks for your passport or checks your ID.”

Miriam shared fond memories of the synagogue’s large social hall, once hosting weddings with up to 800 guests. Families would invite everyone to join, making it a grand celebration. Sadly, the hall is no longer part of the Jewish community due to declining numbers. Miriam recalled that every bride dreamed of walking up the steps into the hall, and weddings were lavish, with brides traveling to Miami or having custom dresses made at La Canto. While the Star of David still adorns the floor, the building has now been transformed into a theater.

The sign, written in Spanish, reads: “Let the hostages come home now.” Displayed at El Patronato (Beth Shalom). – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Another important aspect of Jewish life in Cuba is the brit Milah (circumcision). Miriam shared, “Circumcisions are usually performed in hospitals rather than in private settings. On the eighth day, the baby undergoes the circumcision after the family obtains permission from the government, which is always granted. While a mohel may occasionally be brought in, it is more common for the procedure to take place at the hospital.”

Chabad emissaries do not have a permanent presence in Cuba. Miriam explained that the relationship between Chabad and Cuba is strained, noting, “Chabad is not represented in Cuba as we speak.” In Cuba, a unique agreement with Israel allows children to be recognized as Jewish if at least one grandparent is Jewish and the parents undergo conversion, a practice that aligns with Conservative guidelines rather than Orthodox tradition. While Israel accepts this status for Cuban Jews, Chabad does not, leading to ongoing disputes over the Law of Return. Despite these tensions, Chabad continues to visit Cuba during Passover, inviting Jewish families to participate in the seders.

Community Outreach

In addition to its religious services, Synagogue Beth Shalom is deeply involved in community outreach, organizing educational events, cultural exchanges, and charitable initiatives that benefit both the Jewish community and the wider Cuban society. Among the key events is May 14, when the Cuban Jewish community observes Yom HaZikaron and Yom HaAtzmaut, reinforcing its strong connection with Israel. On Yom HaShoah (Holocaust Remembrance Day), memorial services are typically held at the Guanabacoa Cemetery and various local synagogues.

Jewish Education at El Patronato (Beth Shalom) – A Glimpse into Havana’s Jewish Classroom, New York Jewish Travel Guide

Rising Leaders Among the Young

In a conversation with the vice president of Beth Shalom, Hella Ashkenazi told the New York Jewish Travel Guide (NYJTG), “In Havana, particularly at Beth Shalom, young Jews and students play a crucial role in sustaining and growing the community. They are actively involved, making it an integral part of their daily lives.” She added, “With no full-time rabbi in the country, laypeople—especially young adults—have taken on responsibilities traditionally held by the rabbi.”

On a typical Saturday morning, at least two of the four community leaders are under the age of 25. These young leaders are committed to breathing new life into the community, transforming it from a near-dormant state into one filled with energy and celebration. Although the community does not have a permanent rabbi, they receive regular visits from Rabbi Pinchas Ruzal, originally from Argentina and now based in Chile. Rabbi Ruzal travels to Havana four to five times a year to lead services and provide religious guidance. Hella also noted, “At one point, they sent a young man to a seminary in Washington, D.C., but he never came back — largely due to economic difficulties. The community simply can’t afford to support a permanent rabbi.”

The young congregants bring a lively and relaxed energy to Friday night Shabbat services, often dressed in casual shirts and filling the front rows as they sing along to spirited Shabbat melodies. Afterward, the community gathers for a shared Shabbat dinner, which usually includes mashed potatoes, shredded cabbage, and chicken. The evening often concludes with Rikudim, traditional Hebrew folkloric dance, creating a festive and welcoming atmosphere.

Today, many young people in the community possess a deep knowledge of Judaism. They read from the Torah, lead prayers, and even perform the hagbiya, the ritual of lifting and displaying the heavy scroll. “They know more about Judaism than their parents and grandparents because we lost two generations over these 58 years,” one community member explained. “Now, we have a new generation attending Sunday school, serving as madrichim [leaders], and learning about their heritage.”

Hella added, “In our Sunday school, we have about 100 students from across the entire synagogue community. We don’t experience antisemitism here in Cuba. While the government is pro-Palestinian and critical of Israel, the Cuban people are very friendly, and we face no issues because of our Jewish identity. Our students attend regular schools alongside the rest of the Cuban population without any problems. Overall, Cuba respects all religions.”

El Patronato (Beth Shalom), New York Jewish Travel Guide

For Passover, our community gathers over 200 people, coming together as one large family. What sets us apart is the way we celebrate—creating a sense of unity that feels distinct from the outside world. A key example is the support we receive from the Jewish Congress of Canada, which provides us with a container of Passover food and supplies each year. Thanks to their generosity, every family in our community is equipped with everything they need to observe the entire week of Passover.

At the core of Beth Shalom is its official youth organization, which members can join after their Bar or Bat Mitzvah. One congregant shared, “I have many brothers and sisters here without any blood connection. It’s like a big family.” This sense of connection and belonging creates a vibrant, resilient community. The synagogue ensures that young people are engaged, offering activities such as computers, Wi-Fi, and a television.

Many of these young adults come from a range of religious backgrounds. Some were raised Jewish and have been part of the community since childhood, while others joined at a young age and are now in the process of converting. They dedicate months to study in preparation for their appearance before a Beit Din, the rabbinical tribunal that will finalize their conversion.

“These young people are the future leaders of our community,” said one community member. “Without the dedication and pride of our youth, the Jewish community faces the risk of dwindling to the point of extinction.”

In the last four years, the synagogue has overseen eighty conversions and nine bar mitzvahs. With a small Jewish population, intermarriage is common. Converts must be linked to a Jewish family and are encouraged to embrace their heritage and traditions. Intermarriage rates are around 90 percent. Those choosing to convert must take classes for over a year and pass an exam before appearing before the rabbinical court for final approval.

The Jewish community in Cuba consists of approximately 800 to 850 members in Havana, with over 100 more living in eastern cities such as Santa Clara, Camagüey, and Santiago de Cuba. While emigration continues, there is a strong sense of resilience among those who have chosen to stay in Cuba. The community’s commitment to maintaining Jewish identity and culture is a testament to their dedication to their faith and history. For them, being Jewish in Cuba is not just about the past but about a future in which they remain an integral part of the island’s rich tapestry.

Hella Ashkenazi and JHT Group at El Patronato – Connecting with Havana’s Jewish Community, New York Jewish Travel Guide

Heritage and Vision

As Beth Shalom thrives in Havana, its legacy serves as a reminder of the enduring strength of the Cuban Jewish community. With a commitment to tradition and innovation, the synagogue looks towards the future with hope and resilience. Prominent visitors to the community have included acclaimed filmmaker Steven Spielberg, after being invited by the government to the international film festival and expressed a personal interest in meeting with the local Jewish community. Former U.S. President Jimmy Carter also paid a visit in 2011. In 1998, Fidel Castro visited Beth Shalom during Hanukkah, a gesture of goodwill later echoed by Raúl Castro, who visited in 2010.

Hella highlighted that one of the community’s most important programs is the Maccabi Games, where they proudly won five medals. “We have a bright future as we prepare for the next delegation to participate in the Maccabiah, a multi-sport event for youth held every four years in Israel, in 2025. Part of our team is here, and the rest of the team is in Israel, representing us in softball and soccer.”

The Jewish community in Cuba, led by the dedicated and resilient members of Beth Shalom, continues to thrive despite the challenges of history and geography. Through the commitment of young leaders, a strong sense of community, and unwavering support from international Jewish organizations, this vibrant community ensures that Jewish traditions, culture, and identity endure for future generations. The spirit of unity and dedication to preserving their heritage, whether through Passover celebrations, educational programs, or sporting achievements, reflects a deep-rooted bond that transcends borders. As they look toward the future with hope, the Jewish community in Cuba remains a living testament to the enduring strength of faith and the power of family.

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By Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide & New York Jewish Guide

This unforgettable journey was graciously hosted by The Jewish Heritage Travel, with heartfelt thanks to Luis Arteaga and Miriam Levinson for organizing such a remarkable and unique experience.

A special thanks to Vickie Prince for her knowledgeable and engaging guiding, bringing Havana’s hidden gems and history to life with her insights and enthusiasm.

For details on upcoming trips and to request a travel brochure, contact The Jewish Heritage Travel at https://jhtravel.org/ or call 1.845.256.0197.