The Alentejo, a magnificent region in Portugal, is situated between the Algarve and central Lisbon. This expansive, sparsely populated area encompasses over 30 percent of Portugal’s land and is known for its charming rolling hills and historic fortified towns. In Portuguese, “Alentejo” means “beyond the Tagus River,” and it proudly holds the distinction of being the world’s largest cork producer. The countryside is adorned with sprawling cork tree forests, where the bark is carefully harvested once every nine years, and the tree trunks are marked with white paint, indicating the last harvest. The region exudes a rustic, unspoiled beauty, featuring vast undulating plains, abundant cork tree groves, and numerous vineyards.

The government has earmarked approximately $6 million for the Portuguese Jewish Network—Sefarad Routes, a state-funded initiative dedicated to preserving and commemorating sites associated with the country’s rich Jewish heritage. This project currently covers approximately 30 municipalities in the central and northern regions of Portugal, including notable towns like Castelo de Vide, Elvas, and Evora.

Old Medieval Bridge, Marvao, New York Jewish Travel Guide

“From Tragedy to Reconciliation: Castelo de Vide’s Journey with its Jewish Heritage”

Nestled amidst picturesque landscapes, Castelo de Vide greets visitors with clusters of whitewashed houses ascending towards a castle perched on a hill. This enchanting town boasts a rich history, highlighted by the discovery, some thirty years ago, of what is believed to be a medieval synagogue, shedding light on its Jewish heritage. The town’s streets reflect this legacy, with names such as Rua da Judiaria (Street of Jews) and Rua Nova (New Street), where Jews who had converted to Christianity once resided. Many of the town’s houses still retain markings or mezuzah slots on their doors, offering tangible reminders of their former Jewish inhabitants. Notably, on the right doorpost of one such residence, visitors can observe small indentations, roughly 10 centimeters in size. In Jewish tradition, before entering a house, a Jew would touch the mezuzah and then kiss their hand as an expression of faith.

The history of Castelo de Vide is deeply intertwined with its proximity to the Spanish border. During the Spanish Expulsion of 1492, the town became a haven for Jewish refugees, with approximately 4,000 Spanish-Jewish individuals finding refuge here. Before this influx, the town had a small Jewish community among its 800 inhabitants. These refugees crossed the border, passing through the Old Roman Bridge in Marvao, where tolls were collected from them.

Today, a plaque beside this ancient bridge, dating back 2,000 years, commemorates this significant exodus. Ruben Obadiah, the communications manager of the Regional Agency of Tourism Promotion of Alentejo, explained, “The Jewish Community decided to designate this location as a memorial site for the Portagem Bridge, a tribute to the 500 years since the expulsion of the Jews from Portugal.”

In the year 1497, Castelo de Vide’s Jewish community endured a tragic event. They were forcibly marched downhill from Rua da Judiaria to Rua da Fonte, where the town’s fountain became the site of their coerced conversion through baptism. This haunting episode left a lasting imprint on the town’s collective memory for centuries.

Fast forward to 1986, and Mario Soares, the former president of Portugal, stood at this very location to extend an official apology to the Jewish people. His gesture marked a pivotal moment in acknowledging the painful history and promoting reconciliation.

Today, Portugal demonstrates its progressive stance by offering citizenship to the descendants of those Conversos who fled the country during that dark period, provided they can trace their Sephardic ancestry. This inclusive policy extends a welcoming embrace to descendants from around the world, spanning the Mediterranean, Turkey, Brazil, Israel, India, and the United States. It reflects Portugal’s commitment to addressing historical injustices and fostering connections with its Sephardic Jewish heritage.

A plaque beside the 2,000-year-old bridge commemorates the painful exodus. Castelo de Vide, New York Jewish Travel Guide

The municipality has undertaken a thoughtful approach to preserving the historical significance of the synagogue, transforming it into a modern and impressive museum. Serving as a poignant memorial to the town’s Jewish community, which endured the hardships of forced conversions in 1497 and subsequent persecution during the Inquisition.

The museum encompasses several significant elements, including the original synagogue itself, featuring separate areas for men and women, a remarkable wooden tabernacle, a 14th-century stone ark designed to house Torah scrolls, and ancient baths. A particularly intriguing artifact on display is a testament to the resilience of Jewish customs during challenging times. In adherence to Jewish tradition, lamps or candles are customarily lit every Friday at sunset to observe the Sabbath. However, openly practicing these rituals during the Inquisition was perilous. To maintain their traditions clandestinely, Jews ingeniously lit candles inside earthen pots with small openings. This enabled them to discreetly adhere to their customs.

Visitors to the museum can marvel at one of these earthen pots, serving as a tangible reminder of the struggles faced by the New Christians, those forced to convert to Catholicism, and their unwavering dedication to preserving their heritage amidst adversity.

Shema Israel Prayer, Castelo de Vide Museum, New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Anusim, or secret Jews, cleverly adapted to the dietary rules of their forced faith. They created lamb sausages to mimic pork and fried onions in olive oil, infusing them with herbs to conceal their true Jewish practices.

Inside the synagogue, a memorial honors the New Christians, such as Garcia de Orta, a Portuguese botanist and physician believed to have secretly practiced Judaism. Despite outwardly adhering to Christianity, he was persecuted, and his remains were burned after his sister was executed for her faith. Memorials in Portugal and India commemorate his contributions to tropical medicine.

Esther Cohen, from Netanya, Israel, traces her roots to Castelo de Vide, where her family fled in the early 16th century. A pair of keys to their former home, passed down through generations, is now proudly displayed in the synagogue museum, symbolizing their lasting connection to history.

Fountain in Castelo de Vide: New York Jewish Travel Guide

“Commemorating Dr. Garcia de Orta: A Tribute at Castelo de Vide’s Fountain”

Mayor Antonio Pita of Castelo de Vide enthusiastically announced progress on three ongoing projects dedicated to preserving the rich history of the synagogue, which has already drawn over 30,000 visitors.

The first project, dubbed “Inquisition House,” will recount the harrowing saga of Inquisition persecution, chronicling the plight of 300 families who endured imprisonment, persecution, and tragic fates.

In response to visitor needs, the municipality intends to establish a kosher hotel and provide tailored services for observant travelers.

The second project entails an extensive genealogical study tracing the lineage of New Christian descendants and documenting their global dispersion. This endeavor aims to uncover their family histories and current locations.

“Lastly, the third project involves the establishment of a dedicated space for the House of Dr. Garcia de Orta near the villa’s fountain. A renowned physician, botanist, and scientist of Sephardic Jewish origin, Dr. Garcia de Orta made significant contributions to the fields of medicine and pharmacology in the 16th century. This area will honor his legacy in a historically significant setting.

“Evora’s Jewish Legacy: A Treasure Trove of History”

Located in the southern region of Portugal, Evora stands out as an enchanting tourist destination. This picturesque city exudes the quintessential Portuguese charm and boasts a rich tapestry of historical monuments. However, it is far from being a dormant relic solely reliant on its illustrious past. Evora is a vibrant and dynamic city, home to a significant student population attending one of the world’s oldest universities. While it may not enjoy the instant recognition of larger Portuguese cities, Evora is an essential stop for those embarking on a Jewish heritage tour in Portugal.

With its maze-like narrow streets, iconic landmarks, and sun-drenched white houses, Evora remains a living testament to its history. Remarkably, it survived the devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755 and has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 1986. The city’s historic center showcases architectural influences that have left an indelible mark on Portuguese architecture, especially in Brazil.

During the medieval era, Evora ranked as Portugal’s second-largest city and was home to one of the most extensive Jewish quarters, with around 150 Jewish communities. Within a compact network of streets and alleys, one could find two synagogues, a Jewish school, a hospital, a mikveh (ritual bath), and even a leprosarium (leprosy hospital). The Public Library houses a rare treasure—a renowned work titled “Almanach Perpetuum” by Jewish scholar Abraham Zacuto, which was originally published in 1496. His work was later translated by Master José Neighbor and became the Nautical Guide Evora I in 1516. Evora’s profound Jewish heritage and historical significance make it an indispensable destination for anyone interested in exploring Portugal’s cultural tapestry.

Almanach Perpetuum by Abraham Zacuto, New York Jewish Travel Guide

“Exploring Évora: Must-See Attractions and Landmarks”

Giraldo Square, formerly housing the Portuguese Inquisition Court, boasts a central fountain adorned with eight spouts symbolizing the nearby streets. On the north side stands the magnificent Santo Anto Church, while quaint cafes and unique boutiques adorn the eastern edge, contributing to a lively atmosphere.

Evora Cathedral: Exemplifying Gothic architecture at its finest, the Evora Cathedral mirrors the fortified cathedral in Lisbon, enchanting visitors with its majestic presence and elaborate craftsmanship.

The Roman Temple of Evora: Recognized as the Templo de Diana, this emblematic landmark in the city carries profound historical importance and has secured its place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Nestled in the core of the historic district, it dates back to the first century and is thought to have been erected in homage to Augustus, the inaugural emperor of the Roman Empire.

The Aqueduct of Água de Prata: Among Évora’s remarkable attractions stands the 16th-century aqueduct, spanning nearly 20 kilometers to provide water to the city. Sourced from abundant springs in Nossa Senhora da Graça do Divor, situated 18 kilometers to the north, this engineering wonder boasts imposing arches outside and within the city walls. Beneath these arches, houses and shops are nestled, shaping a distinctive urban panorama.

Praça do Giraldo, Evora: New York Jewish Travel Guide

Elvas: Unveiling Portugal’s Hidden Gem

Tucked away on the arid plains near the Portuguese Spanish border, just 12 kilometers (7 miles) from Spain, Elvas stands as a historical treasure trove waiting to be discovered. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012, the town captivates visitors with its meticulously preserved star-shaped fortifications and surrounding forts—testaments to its strategic importance over the centuries.

Despite its rich heritage, Elvas remains one of Portugal’s best-kept secrets, often overlooked by tourists. Yet, those who venture here are rewarded with a captivating blend of history and charm. Thanks to its UNESCO recognition, interest in Elvas has grown on both sides of the border, drawing curious travelers eager to explore its medieval streets, ancient churches, and vibrant local culture.

Wander through its cobbled alleys, admire its architectural wonders, and indulge in the authentic flavors of family-run restaurants, where every dish tells a story. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a traveler seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience, Elvas promises a journey through time, steeped in beauty and tradition.

Elvas, a scenic and picturesque town – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Elvas’s Jewish Legacy: A Journey Through Time

During the Middle Ages, Elvas thrived with a vibrant Jewish community, which left its mark in two distinct quarters: the Old Quarter (Praça da República) and the New Quarter, located west of the Alcáçova area. Despite Christian rule, Jewish life persisted, shaping the town’s rich cultural tapestry.

Today, echoes of this heritage come alive at the Elvas Jewish History House, housed in a former 16th-century municipal butcher shop. Recent archaeological discoveries have revealed the remnants of an ancient synagogue, now undergoing meticulous restoration to serve as an educational center dedicated to preserving and sharing Elvas’s Jewish history and traditions.

Within its sacred walls, 12 columns stand tall, each symbolizing one of the 12 tribes of Israel, a testament to the deep-rooted faith of the community. Visitors can step back in time, witnessing the synagogue’s transformation from a revered house of worship to a humble slaughterhouse. The entrance tiles, bearing silent witness to this journey, encapsulate the essence of its historical evolution—offering a poignant and rare glimpse into Elvas’s Jewish past.

Public Market Butcher “formerly a synagogue”, Evora – New York Jewish Travel Guide

Discovering Elvas: Must-See Attractions

Elvas Castle

Step back in time at the well-preserved Elvas Castle. Wander through its historic halls, and don’t miss the chance to climb the battlements. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views, stretching all the way to the Spanish town of Badajoz—a unique perspective on both Portuguese and Spanish landscapes.

Museu de Arte Contemporânea

Immerse yourself in contemporary art at the Museu de Arte Contemporânea, home to the renowned Antonio Cachola Collection. Marvel at works by modern and contemporary Portuguese artists, and take a moment to admire the museum’s stunning blue-and-white azulejo tiles in the auditorium—where tradition meets the avant-garde.

Praça da República

Experience the vibrant heart of Elvas at Praça da República, the town’s charming central square. Stroll along cobblestone streets converging here and admire the striking cathedral facade to the north and the inviting loggia of the old city hall to the south. Be sure to take in the distinctive calçada portuguesa paving, where traditional materials create a mesmerizing 3D pattern. For insider tips and travel information, stop by the tourist office conveniently located in the square.

For more information:

• To plan your trip to Portugal, visit Visit Portugal.

• For insights on Jewish tourism in Portugal, explore Paths of Faith.

This article and photography were contributed by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide and New York Jewish Guide.

The author participated in a press trip sponsored by Visit Portugal.