Survival in Sarajevo: The Story of La Benevolencija and a City’s Jewish Lifeline

Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, sits quietly in a valley surrounded by green mountains—its cobblestone streets and historic mosques, churches, and synagogues tell stories of a city that has long been a crossroads of cultures and faiths. On my recent Jewish heritage press trip to Sarajevo, I had the privilege to explore this remarkable city and uncover a story that not only moved me deeply but illuminated the profound role the Jewish community played during one of Europe’s most harrowing modern conflicts: the Bosnian War of the 1990s.

At the heart of this story lies La Benevolencija, the Jewish humanitarian organization that redefined what it means to help one another—not as Jews, Muslims, Croats, or Serbs—but simply as human beings.

La Benevolencija, the Jewish humanitarian group, once operated from the Old Synagogue in Sarajevo. — New York Jewish Travel Guide

Centuries of Jewish Life in Sarajevo

The Jewish presence in Sarajevo dates to the late 15th century, when Sephardic Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition found refuge under the protection of the Ottoman Empire. Sarajevo, then a thriving center of trade and cultural exchange, became a welcoming home. These early settlers brought with them Ladino, their Judeo-Spanish language, and customs that would blend beautifully with the city’s diverse traditions.

By the 17th century, Ashkenazi Jews also arrived in the region, forming their own community while maintaining close ties with their Sephardic neighbors. Sarajevo soon became one of the few places in the world where both Jewish traditions coexisted peacefully. Jewish contributions to the city’s development were significant: they were doctors, merchants, educators, and artists. They founded schools, synagogues, and cultural associations that would shape the identity of Sarajevo for generations.

One such institution was La Benevolencija, established in 1892 by a group of Jewish leaders as a cultural and benevolent society. Originally created to promote education, medical assistance, and the welfare of the Jewish community, it would become something much greater a century later.

The Museum of Sarajevo, dedicated to the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is housed in the country’s oldest synagogue. — New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Siege of Sarajevo and the Rebirth of La Benevolencija

In April 1992, Sarajevo plunged into war. What followed was one of the longest sieges in modern history, lasting nearly four years. The city was encircled by Bosnian Serb forces and subjected to daily shelling and sniper fire. Electricity, food, medicine, and basic necessities became scarce, and the once-harmonious fabric of Sarajevo’s multiethnic society was torn apart by violence and nationalism.

As the war deepened and ethnic divisions hardened, La Benevolencija reemerged—not just as a Jewish institution, but as a lifeline for all Sarajevans.

Operating out of the Jewish Community Center and an old synagogue, the organization opened its doors to people of all backgrounds. With courage and coordination, its Jewish leadership transformed it into a multiethnic humanitarian aid hub. Volunteers—Jews, Muslims, Croats, and Serbs—worked side-by-side to serve the besieged population.

Among its many functions, La Benevolencija operated

A public kitchen that provided meals to thousands
A pharmacy, one of the only operational ones during the siege, dispensing life-saving medication
Medical clinics, staffed by doctors from various ethnic and religious groups
Evacuation convoys, organized with Jewish connections abroad, helping rescue hundreds of people—Jews and non-Jews alike—from the city

The Jewish community’s global connections proved invaluable. With support from the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee (JDC) and other international partners, supplies were flown in and distributed under impossible conditions. Jewish humanitarianism, once focused internally, became the heartbeat of Sarajevo’s survival.

The Museum of Sarajevo, dedicated to the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is housed in the country’s oldest synagogue. — New York Jewish Travel Guide

A Beacon of Morality and Unity

What set La Benevolencija apart was not just its effectiveness but its ethos. While the world outside Sarajevo fractured into warring ethnic enclaves, inside this Jewish-led center, the guiding principle was simple: help everyone.

In this tragic twist of history, the Jews of Sarajevo—so often persecuted and marginalized throughout Europe—became rescuers and protectors. They turned no one away. In doing so, they rejected the logic of war and hatred, offering an alternative vision rooted in compassion and solidarity.

This moral clarity resonated not only across the city but around the world. To this day, La Benevolencija is cited by international observers, historians, and peace advocates as a rare example of interethnic cooperation under fire.

Tracing the Footsteps: A Jewish Traveler’s Experience

Standing inside the majestic Ashkenazi Synagogue on the banks of the Miljacka River, I felt the powerful contrast between the quiet dignity of the sanctuary and the turbulent history that had engulfed this community. The synagogue, still active, serves as both a house of prayer and a historical monument—its richly decorated interiors echoing with memories of weddings, holidays, and whispered prayers during darker days.

A visit to the Old Jewish Cemetery, one of the largest in Southeast Europe, further deepens the experience. The gravestones, many carved in Ladino and Hebrew, reveal centuries of Jewish life in Sarajevo. During the war, this cemetery tragically became a sniper outpost due to its elevated location—yet today it stands again as a place of peace and remembrance.

At the Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, housed in the 1581 Sephardic Old Synagogue, I explored exhibits on Jewish ritual life, the Holocaust, and the Bosnian War. Artifacts, family photographs, and wartime diaries offer an intimate look into the lives behind the headlines. The museum does more than tell Jewish stories—it illustrates the shared destiny of Sarajevo’s people.

Reflections and Lessons for Today

Sarajevo teaches us that history is not just found in monuments or museums; it is alive in the choices people make, especially in times of crisis. The story of La Benevolencija is not simply a Jewish story. It is a human story, one that transcends identity to ask, what kind of neighbor, what kind of citizen, what kind of person do I want to be?

For Jewish travelers, Sarajevo is more than a destination—it is a moral pilgrimage. It is a place where Jewish heritage is not only preserved but lived out in acts of bravery, sacrifice, and hope. In a world still grappling with intolerance and division, the example of Sarajevo’s Jews during the 1992–1995 war offers a profound lesson: unity is possible, and compassion is a powerful act of resistance. Sarajevo may bear the scars of war, but its soul remains vibrant. And through its Jewish community, past and present, it continues to inspire travelers from around the world.

Planning Your Visit

For those inspired to explore Sarajevo’s Jewish legacy:

Start at the Ashkenazi Synagogue, which still holds Shabbat services and is home to the Jewish community’s headquarters.
Visit the Jewish Museum, located in the Old Sephardic Synagogue, for an in-depth look at Jewish history in Bosnia.
Pay respects at the Old Jewish Cemetery, now a national monument.
Meet with community leaders at La Benevolencija, who continue to preserve this remarkable legacy through cultural and educational programs.

Plan Your Journey to Bosnia & Herzegovina and Croatia
Story by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide

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🎒 Travel With Experts
This unforgettable experience was graciously hosted by Fortuna Tours. Special thanks to Mili Bijavica Jr. and his outstanding team for curating such a meaningful and seamless itinerary.

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