Uncovering Jewish Split: A Hidden Gem of Heritage in Croatia”

As Jewish heritage tourism continues to thrive across Europe, cities like Split, Croatia, are emerging as vibrant destinations with open arms and enriching new experiences. Renowned for its crystal-clear Adriatic waters, ancient Roman landmarks, and Mediterranean charm, Split is also gaining recognition as a gateway to a little-known yet deeply rooted Jewish history.

Whether tracing Sephardic roots or exploring Balkan Jewish heritage, Split offers a meaningful Adriatic experience. With a bit of advance planning, kosher-observant travelers can navigate the city comfortably.

During a recent Jewish heritage press tour, I had the privilege of discovering Split alongside Lea Altarac, a certified guide and expert in Jewish history. The tour was organized by Fortuna Tours, a leading regional destination management company that curates immersive Jewish heritage experiences across the Balkans. With her deep knowledge and engaging storytelling, Lea brought to life the centuries-old narrative of Split’s Jewish community—a story shaped by migration, resilience, and cultural richness.

The Riva: Split’s vibrant waterfront promenade at the heart of the city, New York Jewish Travel Guide

At the heart of Split is Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most remarkable Roman monuments in Europe. Built in the 4th century, the palace was not merely a retirement residence for the emperor Diocletian—it was a self-contained city. Its walls and foundations still form the structure of Split’s old town today. Surprisingly, Diocletian is linked to Jewish tradition. The Jerusalem Talmud mentions his early connection with Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi, compiler of the Mishnah. Later in life, Diocletian is said to have treated Jewish leaders with uncharacteristic respect—a rare nuance for a Roman emperor. Within the palace’s vast underground vaults, now used for markets, exhibitions, and even Game of Thrones filming locations, visitors can see a room with multiple menorahs carved into the stone. These carvings, likely made centuries ago, hint at a persistent—if often hidden—Jewish presence.

Split’s Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO treasure — New York Jewish Travel Guide

Split’s Jewish history is deeply intertwined with the nearby ancient Roman city of Salona. When Salona was destroyed by Avar invaders in the 7th century, its residents fled to the fortified walls of Diocletian’s Palace—a move that marked the birth of what we now know as Split. It is believed that Jewish families were among those who made this transition, quietly laying the foundations for a community that would endure through the centuries.

By the 15th century, Split became a refuge for Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain. Welcomed by local authorities who recognized the value of their commercial and maritime expertise, many Jewish families settled and contributed to the city’s growth.

One of the most notable figures of this era was Daniel Rodrigo (Rodriguez), a wealthy Portuguese-Jewish merchant who found safe haven in Split. Granted special permission to reside within the palace walls, he built an impressive home for his family and became a key figure in the city’s economic and social life. His influence helped pave the way for continued Jewish settlement, especially as Split grew into a strategic port for trade with the Ottoman Empire.

Rodrigo’s legacy endures today. Rodigina Street, named in his honor, winds through the old Jewish ghetto. Here, visitors can still find medieval homes with doorposts etched with slits for mezuzahs—quiet yet powerful reminders of a vibrant Jewish presence that once thrived within the city’s stone walls.

“Named for Daniel Rodrigo, a key Jewish figure in 16th-century Split — New York Jewish Travel Guide”

Tucked away along the narrow alley of Zidovski Prolaz (“Jewish Passage”) stands the Split Synagogue, built in 1510 and considered one of the oldest functioning synagogues in Europe. Uniquely constructed into the western wall of Diocletian’s Palace, it is a rare example of a Romaniote-style sanctuary—where men and women sit together in pews, and the bimah is located at the front rather than in the center.

Though modest in size, the synagogue exudes a quiet elegance. Its blue-painted ceiling, wrought-iron chandeliers, and silver hanging lamps create a warm, reverent atmosphere. A large menorah takes pride of place, while commemorative plaques honor the memory of local Jews who perished in the Holocaust.

“Sacred silver: Ritual objects from Split’s Jewish past — New York Jewish Travel Guide”

Beneath the sanctuary lies a hidden gem: a small but powerful Jewish Museum. This intimate space houses a collection of ritual objects, including Torah ornaments, ketubot (marriage contracts), and community registers. Through photographs, historic documents, and personal artifacts, the museum tells the story of Split’s Jewish community—from merchant families and rabbinic leaders to Holocaust survivors. Together, the synagogue and museum offer visitors a moving, tangible connection to a resilient and enduring Jewish heritage.

Today, Split’s Jewish community is small—about 100 members—but vibrant and welcoming. Despite the absence of a resident rabbi, the community remains active, hosting Shabbat dinners, cultural events, and religious services, often with visiting clergy from Zagreb. Visitors are warmly received and can often help form a minyan upon request. As kosher meat is not readily available, meals are typically vegetarian, but the community’s hospitality and commitment to tradition are strong. “We may be few, but we are proud,” says community member Lea Altarac. “We keep our doors open to travelers and maintain our traditions as best we can.” While there are no fully kosher restaurants in Split, kosher-observant travelers can still navigate comfortably with a bit of planning. Kosher food delivery from Zagreb is available for those who order in advance. Additionally, Chabad representatives in Zagreb or Dubrovnik may assist with food logistics or offer guidance, and some local community members may help arrange kosher meals with prior notice.

In earlier centuries, Split was a beacon of rabbinical scholarship. The Shevet Achim yeshiva trained students who served communities across the Balkans and beyond. Among the most renowned figures was Rabbi David Pardo, chief rabbi of Split in the 18th century, who authored important commentaries including Maskil LeDavid, still studied today. Pardo also introduced a uniquely Split observance: a local celebration on the 7th of Adar, the date traditionally associated with the death of Moses.

Split Synagogue—New York Jewish Travel Guide

In the 1700s, Rabbi Pardo and several community leaders were unjustly imprisoned. When their acquittal came through on the 7th of Adar, it was seen as a miraculous sign. In response, Pardo instituted a local holiday, writing liturgical poems and leading annual prayers of thanksgiving. Though no longer widely observed, this tradition reflects Split’s enduring spiritual identity.

Split’s Jewish community faced its darkest hours during World War II. Under Italian occupation from 1941 to 1943, Jews in Split initially experienced relatively less severe persecution compared to those in Nazi-controlled zones. However, with the German occupation that followed Italy’s capitulation in 1943, conditions deteriorated rapidly. The Gestapo rounded up local Jews, including women and children, and deported them to concentration camps, including Auschwitz. Many never returned. Families were forced to abandon their homes and businesses; some fled to join the Yugoslav Partisans, the communist-led resistance movement. These Jewish fighters played a crucial role in the anti-fascist struggle in Dalmatia. Despite the risk of execution, they participated in sabotage missions and helped rescue fellow Jews. The synagogue was desecrated, its sacred scrolls and books burned in a public act of humiliation in Pjaca Square, where a plaque now commemorates this tragic event.

Yad Vashem has recognized approximately 130 individuals from Croatia as Righteous Among the Nations for their courageous efforts to save Jews during the Holocaust. While this number includes individuals from various cities such as Split, Dubrovnik, and Zagreb, specific names have not been documented in available sources, so the exact number from that city remains unclear. For example, Olga and Dragica Bartulović from Split were honored in 1965 for their actions during the war.

Just west of Split, Marjan Hill offers breathtaking views of the city and the Adriatic Sea. Tucked into its slopes is the historic Jewish cemetery, established in 1573 by merchant Daniel Rodrigo. Next to it stands the Vidilica café, housed in what was once the tahara (ritual purification) building. The structure still bears the Hebrew inscription Tziduk Hadin (“Righteous is the Judgment”), a solemn echo of its sacred past—now repurposed as a restaurant.

Split’s historic Jewish cemetery on Marjan Hill, founded in 1573, offers a powerful glimpse into the city’s Sephardic heritage — New York Jewish Travel Guide

The cemetery contains over 700 graves, with tombstones from the 18th to 20th centuries. Many display inscriptions in Hebrew, Croatian, Italian, and German, reflecting the multicultural history of Split’s Jewish community. The oldest surviving monument, dating to 1717, is carved in the shape of a sarcophagus.

Prominent individuals buried here include Rabbi Chaim Yitzchak Musafiya (d. 1837) and Vid Morpurgo, a 19th-century publisher. After World War II, the cemetery was closed and designated a protected cultural monument. Since 1949, the Jewish community of Split has used a section of the Lovrinac public cemetery, which also features a Holocaust memorial. The Marjan Hill cemetery remains a quiet and moving testament to centuries of Jewish life in Split.

Split attracts over one million tourists annually, and an increasing number of Jewish visitors are discovering its rich heritage. In recent years, the city has seen a notable rise in overnight stays from Israeli and Canadian travelers. Jewish tourists from Israel, the U.S., Canada, and France come seeking ancestral graves, historical sites, or simply a deeper connection with Sephardic and Balkan Jewish heritage. Delegations, including national sports teams, have also visited—underscoring the city’s growing reputation in both Jewish and sports tourism.

Marjan Hill offers breathtaking views of Split and the shimmering Adriatic Sea, a peaceful retreat rich – New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Split Tourism Board has played a key role in promoting Jewish heritage travel, offering valuable support and information to the New York Jewish Travel Guide while warmly welcoming Jewish visitors. A delegation from the Israeli Ministry of Culture and Sports, led by Gazi Nujeidat, visited Split as guests of the University’s Faculty of Kinesiology. Their visit included tours of the Institute of Kinesiology, the Split Sports Hall of Fame, and the training facilities of the renowned HNK Hajduk Split football club—showcasing the city’s unique blend of cultural heritage and athletic excellence.

While Split currently lacks kosher restaurants, kosher meals can be arranged through Chabad Zagreb’s catering services, particularly for group tours. Travelers can also refer to Rabbi Kotel Dadon’s kosher product list, a practical guide to locally available kosher items. The Tourism Board acknowledged that while there is little demand for Hebrew-language promotional materials today, they are open to developing such resources as interest increases.

During Passover and select summer periods, the Meridian Hotel in Split becomes a hub for Jewish travelers from Israel, the U.S., and Canada, offering kosher-certified meals and religious services for tour groups and individual guests alike.

Must-Visit Places in Split – General and Jewish Highlights

From ancient Roman wonders to resilient traces of Jewish heritage, Split offers a compelling blend of history, culture, and coastal beauty. These must-visit sites will deepen your appreciation of this vibrant Adriatic city.

Diocletian’s Palace and Bell Tower — At the heart of Split stands Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved Roman monuments in the world. The adjacent 13th-century bell tower of St. Domnius, built with Egyptian bricks and flanked by an ancient sphinx in Peristyle Square, rises 60 meters above the city. The climb to the top is steep and narrow, but the panoramic views are unforgettable.

Peristyle Square — This central courtyard of the palace is where Roman emperors once addressed the public. Today, it’s a lively gathering spot where past and present converge. The mix of ancient columns, medieval additions, and modern café culture make it one of Split’s most atmospheric places.

The Morpurgo Bookstore, one of the oldest bookstores in Croatia, stands as a lasting symbol of Jewish cultural life in Split — New York Jewish Travel Guide

Morpurgo Bookstore — Founded in 1860 by Vid Morpurgo, a prominent Jewish entrepreneur, the Morpurgo Bookstore is one of the oldest bookstores in Croatia. Once looted and nearly destroyed during World War II, it stands today as a symbol of Jewish cultural life and resilience. It’s worth a stop not only for its history but also for its old-world charm and literary legacy.

Bronze Memorial Plaque at Pjaca (Narodni trg) — Embedded in the pavement of Split’s main square, this striking bronze plaque marks the site where Italian fascists publicly burned the synagogue’s Torah scrolls, prayer books, and archival documents in 1942. Designed in the shape of an open book with jagged spikes, it was installed in 2018 and stands as a solemn memorial to a tragic chapter in the city’s Jewish history. A must-see for those interested in remembrance and resistance.

Riva Promenade — Stretching along the seafront just outside the palace walls, the Riva is the perfect place to unwind with a coffee and take in the rhythms of daily life in Split. Palms sway in the breeze, street performers entertain, and locals and tourists alike enjoy the Adriatic sunshine.

Split is more than just a postcard-perfect port—it is a city where Jewish history breathes quietly through ancient walls, sunlit alleys, and the memories of a community that endured and adapted. From the menorahs carved in Roman chambers to the melodies once sung on 7 Adar, from medieval mezuzah marks to modern museum exhibits, Split offers a vivid mosaic of Jewish resilience and cultural exchange. It is a place where painful memory and cultural pride coexist, where a small community continues to welcome strangers as family, and where every step tells a story. For the Jewish traveler seeking roots, remembrance, and renewed connection in the Adriatic, Split is not merely a detour—it is a destination.

Discover the Jewish Heritage of Split
Story by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide

Explore Split’s deep-rooted Jewish legacy, from its historic synagogue—one of the oldest still in use in Europe—to the centuries-old Jewish cemetery and enduring cultural landmarks that tell the story of a resilient community.

🎒 Travel with Experts
This unforgettable experience was graciously hosted by Fortuna Tours. Special thanks to Mili Bijavica Jr. and his outstanding team for curating such a meaningful and seamless itinerary.