Jewish Sarajevo: A Heritage Destination of Faith, Culture, and Coexistence

Often called the “Jerusalem of Europe,” Sarajevo is a city where cultures converge, histories intertwine, and resilience defines its spirit. Nestled in the heart of the Balkans, this city has long been a crossroads of civilizations—Muslims, Catholics, Orthodox Christians, and Jews—living side by side in relative harmony. But what truly sets Sarajevo apart is the enduring story of its Jewish community, which has played an integral role in shaping its cultural and historical fabric for over 450 years.

The Jewish presence in Sarajevo began in 1565, when Sephardic Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition found refuge in the welcoming embrace of the Ottoman Empire. Under the millet system—an Ottoman framework that granted religious minorities limited self-governance—they were able to practice their faith and traditions openly. Protected by local Muslim leaders, Sarajevo’s Jews established a thriving community. They built synagogues, opened schools, and engaged in trade and crafts, contributing significantly to the city’s economy. The Ladino language echoed through Sarajevo’s cobbled streets, and Jewish customs became part of the city’s multicultural identity.

Ashkenazi Influence: A New Wave of Cultural Growth

Ashkenazi Jews began arriving in Sarajevo in the late 19th century, drawn by the city’s tolerance and opportunity. Many were professionals and merchants who established schools, charities, and, in 1902, the grand Ashkenazi Synagogue—still a vibrant center of Jewish life today.

With its Moorish Revival design and ornate interior, the synagogue reflects the cultural richness the Ashkenazi community brought to Sarajevo, contributing to civic life, publishing in Hebrew and Ladino, and advancing the arts and sciences.

Sarajevo’s history is one of interfaith solidarity. During the Holocaust, Muslim woman Zejneba Hardaga risked her life to shelter the Jewish Kabiljo family. Decades later, during the Bosnian War, the Kabiljos rescued her in return. Honored at Yad Vashem as Righteous Among the Nations, Zejneba’s story reflects the enduring bond between Sarajevo’s Jewish and Muslim communities.

While Ashkenazi Jews brought new waves of cultural and civic life, the Sephardic legacy remained deeply rooted in the city’s spiritual and communal fabric—perhaps best captured in the pages of the Sarajevo Sephardic Pinkas.

Together, the Sephardic and Ashkenazi communities shaped the city’s cosmopolitan spirit- New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Sarajevo Sephardic Pinkas: A Living Chronicle

One of the most treasured relics of Sarajevo’s Jewish heritage is the Pinkas—the official communal record book of the Sephardic Jews. Dating back to the 16th century, this unique document was written in Ladino, Hebrew, and the local Slavic dialect. It detailed the rhythm of daily life—births, marriages, community decisions, and acts of charity—offering an intimate window into centuries of Jewish life in the Balkans.

The Nazis confiscated the Pinkas during World War II, but a miraculous recovery led to its preservation in the Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Jewish heritage historian Tina Bagaric described it as “much more than a record book. It’s a living testimony to the strength and continuity of the Sephardic community that thrived here for centuries.”

The Old Sephardic Synagogue, built in 1587 in Sarajevo, now houses the Jewish Museum after its WWII restoration – New York Jewish Travel Guide

World War II: Tragedy and Survival

The Holocaust brought devastation. Under the Nazi-aligned Ustaše regime, approximately 85% of Bosnia’s Jewish population perished. Synagogues were destroyed, cemeteries desecrated, and cultural treasures lost. Before the war, Sarajevo had 12,000 Jews, mostly Sephardic. According to Bagaric, “Mixed marriages were rare before World War II. After the war, the Jewish population decreased significantly, and mixed marriages became more common.”

Under post-war Yugoslavia’s socialist regime, religious expression was curtailed, but the Jewish community endured. Cultural and humanitarian organizations like La Benevolencija became lifelines, offering social services, organizing cultural events, and preserving traditions.

Humanitarian Legacy: La Benevolencija in Wartime and Peace

During the Bosnian War of the 1990s, Sarajevo’s Jewish community played an extraordinary humanitarian role through La Benevolencija, its cultural and aid organization. Despite being neutral in the conflict, the organization provided vital services to all citizens regardless of religion or ethnicity.

The guiding principle of La Benevolencija is, “We never asked anyone what their name was, what religion they belonged to, or their nationality. We helped everyone.” This approach is what earned the Jewish community the respect and trust of all sides during the war.

They opened pharmacies, ran soup kitchens and clinics, and organized convoys to evacuate civilians. Today, the organization continues to support Sarajevo’s most vulnerable populations, especially elderly Holocaust survivors, offering food, medical care, and companionship. These intergenerational bonds are essential for keeping memory and tradition alive.

The Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina: A Testament to Memory

Located in the Old Synagogue (Il Kal Vjezu), one of the oldest synagogues in the Balkans, the Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina preserves the story of Sarajevo’s Jewish community. After World War II, the synagogue was abandoned and later converted into a museum in 1966. In 2004, it was rededicated and now serves as both a place of worship and a museum.

The ground floor is occasionally used for religious services, while the upper balconies display artifacts, photographs, traditional clothing, and Holocaust exhibits. Together, they trace centuries of Jewish life in Sarajevo and honor the memory of those lost during the Holocaust. The museum offers visitors a powerful glimpse into a rich cultural legacy that continues to endure.

Entrance to Sarajevo’s historic Old Jewish Cemetery, founded in the 16th century—-New York Jewish Travel Guide

The Old Jewish Cemetery: Echoes of Sarajevo’s Jewish Legacy

Nestled on the slopes of Trebević Mountain with sweeping views of Sarajevo, the Old Jewish Cemetery stands as one of the most significant and oldest Jewish burial sites in Europe. Established in the 17th century by Sephardic Jews, this sacred space spans more than 51,000 square meters and contains over 3,800 tombstones—each bearing witness to centuries of Jewish life in Bosnia.

The gravestones reflect a unique blend of Sephardic, Ashkenazi, and local Bosnian traditions, with inscriptions in Hebrew, Ladino, and Bosnian. Though the last burial took place in 1955, the cemetery continues to resonate as a powerful symbol of Sarajevo’s rich and diverse past.

“Among those buried here is Moshe Rafael Attias, also known as Zeki Effendi—a renowned Sephardic intellectual, writer, and a leading advocate for interfaith dialogue in the 19th and early 20th centuries. ‘His enduring legacy,’ historian Tina Jankovic told the New York Jewish Travel Guide, ‘lies in both his literary achievements and his deep commitment to fostering understanding between faiths.’”

Scattered across the grounds are poignant memorials: tributes to Jewish soldiers of World War I, victims of the Holocaust, and a monument honoring Jews and Serbs executed by the Nazis in 1941. A more recent memorial commemorates the Jewish victims of the 1992–1995 Bosnian War. During that conflict, the cemetery—tragically situated along the front lines of the siege of Sarajevo—suffered damage but survived. Today, it is recognized as a protected national monument.

Although the historic Jewish cemetery in Sarajevo is no longer used for new burials, the community maintains a dedicated Jewish section within a municipal cemetery, allowing the continuation of traditional Jewish burial practices and preserving a vital aspect of Jewish religious and cultural life in the city.

Tombstone marked by bullets from the Bosnian War, a reminder of Sarajevo’s turbulent past—New York Jewish Travel

Jankovic pointed to a Stolperstein, a brass plaque honoring Holocaust victims, placed for Dr. Moric Levi, once home to Il Kal Grande, the largest Sephardic synagogue. Now the site of the Association Haggadah, it preserves Bosnia’s Jewish heritage. As of May 2025, Sarajevo has six Stolpersteine, with nine across the country, commemorating victims such as Leon Finci, Avram Levi Sadić, Daniel Ozmo, and Marcel Sneider.

Today, the Old Jewish Cemetery is preserved through a joint effort between local authorities and international Jewish organizations. It welcomes heritage travelers, historians, and descendants alike, offering a rare and powerful glimpse into the Jewish heart of Sarajevo.

Revival and Continuity: Sarajevo’s Living Jewish Community

Though small—fewer than 700 members across Bosnia and Herzegovina, with only about 350 living in Sarajevo —the Jewish community in Sarajevo remains deeply committed to preserving its rich and vibrant heritage. Despite its modest size, the community plays a vital role in safeguarding Jewish culture and tradition in the region, alongside other Jewish communities throughout the country.

“There’s a deep sense of connection here,” says Cantor Igor Bencion Kožemjakin, a Sarajevo native and the spiritual leader of the Ashkenazi Synagogue. “Many who attend aren’t strictly observant, but they feel a strong bond with Jewish culture, tradition, and identity.”

While weekly synagogue attendance is relatively small—as is common in close-knit communities—a devoted group regularly gathers for Shabbat and holiday services. These gatherings often include a Kiddush, which is prepared by community members, typically parve or dairy to allow for broad participation and adherence to dietary laws. Kosher products are widely available in local supermarkets, and a community-curated kosher list helps guide members in selecting appropriate items. However, the main challenge remains access to kosher meat, which is currently not available locally.

Out of respect for local sensitivities, many men opt to wear hats in public instead of yarmulkes. Still, the synagogue warmly welcomes Jews of all backgrounds and levels of observance. Despite the ongoing challenge of gathering a minyan (a quorum of ten adult Jews), the community remains steadfast in preserving both its religious and cultural life. High Holiday and festival services are typically held at the nearby historic Sephardic synagogue.

Jewish education in Sarajevo continues through a small but active Sunday school, where children learn about traditions, holidays, culture, and Hebrew. Youth programs also explore Jewish philosophy and the city’s unique Jewish identity, helping younger generations stay connected to their heritage amid an evolving future.

Despite a global rise in antisemitism, Sarajevo’s Jewish community has remained relatively insulated. Jankovic noted that while incidents have surged elsewhere, Sarajevo still allows for open and peaceful expression of Jewish identity. However, some community members have faced social hostility—at times severing ties with individuals on social media they once considered friends.

Entrance to the Old Sephardic Synagogue Museum in Sarajevo, Bosnia—a testament to centuries of Jewish heritage in the Balkans. Photo: New York Jewish Travel Guide

Facing the Present, Honoring the Past

Sarajevo’s Jewish community, though small, remains resilient. Security measures—including guards and surveillance—now protect the synagogue and communal gatherings. Yet challenges persist, such as the lack of recognition for conversions and the difficulty of maintaining Jewish traditions in a predominantly non-Jewish environment.

“This is a country where more than half the population is Muslim, and while political support may not lie with Israel, it doesn’t affect how local Jews are treated,” explained one community member.

Still, there’s an awareness that peaceful coexistence must not be taken for granted. Educational programs in schools and interfaith seminars work to preserve the mutual respect that has long defined life in Sarajevo.

Amid a global rise in antisemitic incidents linked to recent events in the Middle East, Sarajevo’s Jewish community has largely been spared the backlash seen in parts of Western Europe and North America. Community leaders attribute this to the city’s longstanding tradition of intercommunal cooperation and tolerance.

Demographic Challenges

Today, the most significant challenge facing the community is demographic decline. Emigration, assimilation, and low birth rates continue to shrink its numbers. Many young Jews leave for education or careers abroad and often don’t return. Preserving identity and passing on traditions to those who remain is a constant struggle.

Yet there are signs of hope. “There’s growing interest in Jewish heritage tourism,” said Jankovic “Visitors from Israel, the U.S., and Europe want to explore Sarajevo’s Jewish past.” Guided tours of synagogues, cemeteries, and historic neighborhoods showcase the city’s rich Sephardic and Ashkenazi legacies.

The community also promotes interfaith dialogue and Holocaust education, partnering with Muslim, Catholic, and Orthodox leaders to foster shared values and resist extremism.

International Jewish organizations and NGOs support education, cultural activities, and social services. Public events such as the Sarajevo Jewish Film Festival and city-center Hanukkah celebrations draw diverse audiences and showcase the community’s ongoing vitality.

Looking ahead, the community may be small—but it’s committed. As Jankovic put it, “We don’t just want to survive—we want to live, celebrate, and share who we are.”

Sarajevo’s Jewish story is one of endurance and revival. From the arrival of Sephardic Jews in the 16th century to the community’s bravery during the Bosnian War, Jews have long been part of the city’s cultural fabric.

Though smaller today, their presence endures—through restored synagogues, cherished traditions, and voices that continue to tell their story. For Jewish heritage travelers, Sarajevo offers more than history—it offers a living legacy of resilience and hope.

Top Must-See Places in Sarajevo:

Latin Bridge
Site of the 1914 assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the Latin Bridge is a key landmark for understanding Sarajevo’s global historical significance.

Vijećnica — a symbol of Sarajevo’s Austro-Hungarian elegance and cultural heritage—New York Jewish Travel Guide

Vijećnica (Sarajevo City Hall)
A masterpiece of Austro-Hungarian architecture, Vijećnica is one of Sarajevo’s most iconic landmarks. Severely damaged during the 1990s siege, it has since been meticulously restored. Today, it stands not only as a symbol of the city’s resilience but also as a vibrant cultural venue hosting exhibitions, concerts, and public events.

Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque
Built in the 16th century, the Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque is among the most important Islamic monuments in the Balkans. Its elegant Ottoman design and active religious role make it a powerful symbol of Sarajevo’s rich, multi-faith heritage—where history, spirituality, and culture continue to converge.

Tunnel of Hope — Sarajevo’s wartime lifeline during the 1992–1995 siege—New York Jewish Travel Guide

Sarajevo Tunnel Museum (Tunnel of Hope)
While not a Jewish-specific site, the Sarajevo Tunnel is essential to understanding the city’s recent history. Built during the 1992–1996 siege, this underground passage served as a critical lifeline—delivering food, medicine, and hope to the besieged population. Many Jewish families, along with others, depended on the tunnel for survival, making it a poignant and powerful stop on any heritage itinerary.

Jewish Influence on Sarajevo’s Cuisine
Enhance your journey by sampling Sarajevo’s diverse culinary traditions, where Jewish flavors are woven into the city’s broader food culture. Kosher-friendly restaurants, Jewish-owned eateries, and community-led food events offer a taste of living heritage.

Don’t miss burek, a flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat, or tufahija, a beloved dessert of stewed apples stuffed with walnuts and drizzled in syrup—both enjoyed across generations. For more insight into Sarajevo’s Jewish gastronomy, check out our feature on Miriam Tauber

For More Information

Story by Meyer Harroch
New York Jewish Travel Guide

This remarkable journey was made possible thanks to the generous hospitality of Fortuna Tours. Special appreciation goes to Mili Bijavica and his dedicated team for curating such a meaningful and unforgettable experience.

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