A journey to Marrakech is an enchanting sensory odyssey where every step awakens your senses with a burst of exotic sights, captivating sounds, enticing scents, and delightful flavors. Often referred to as “the Paris of Morocco,” this city is also affectionately called the “Red City” or “Al Hamra.” At the heart of Marrakech lies Djemma El Fna Square, a vibrant epicenter offering a plethora of experiences. Here, you can explore beautifully vibrant souks, wander through lush gardens, visit opulent palaces, be entranced by snake charmers, savor delectable treats at open-air food stalls, and indulge in an array of shopping opportunities to uncover authentic Moroccan treasures.
Jacques Kadoch, President of the Jewish Community of Marrakech, provided an insightful update on Jewish life in the city during a gathering with visiting journalists.
He noted that the Marrakech community today numbers fewer than 120 members, down from 138 the previous year, reflecting broader demographic shifts within Moroccan Jewry. At the same time, he highlighted a significant rise in Israeli visitors. Over the past five years, more than 80,000 Israelis have traveled to Morocco, a number expected to exceed 100,000 soon. Given Marrakech’s historic and spiritual importance, many of these visitors include the city in their itinerary.
Despite its small size, the community remains vibrant. Over the past two years, it has celebrated an average of three weddings per month and more than five bar mitzvahs, representing both Sephardic and Ashkenazi traditions. Kadoch emphasized the community’s inclusive spirit, welcoming Jews of all backgrounds to mark their joyous occasions in Marrakech.
He also expressed optimism about plans for a new Jewish Center, currently under discussion with local authorities. The existing two synagogues can seat only about 115 to 126 congregants, yet services often draw between 300 and 400 attendees. A new center would help accommodate growing numbers of Jewish, Israeli, and international visitors, especially during Hillouloth—pilgrimages commemorating the anniversaries of revered rabbis.
Kadoch further noted increasing interest among Moroccan students in Jewish history and the Hebrew language, pointing with pride to Muslims who now speak fluent Hebrew. While Israeli visitors are generally limited to 14-day stays, extensions may be obtained through the courts.
Committed to serving as long as possible, Kadoch balances his responsibilities to the community with a personal promise to spend holidays with his children and grandchildren in Israel. For the remainder of the year, he remains devoted to strengthening Jewish life in Morocco—confident that its future, though smaller in number, is rich in meaning and connection.
Accessed through a wooden door bearing a Hebrew sign, the Miara Jewish Cemetery in Marrakech offers designated areas for mourners, congregation halls, and separate burial sections for men, women, and children. Though its history spans over 600 years, the tombstones reveal a rich variety of styles—some inscribed in Hebrew, others simple stones often featuring candleholders. Space constraints have led to a three-tiered layout, with all burial grounds crafted from stone.
Of particular note are the tombstones of Sephardic Jews who sought refuge in Morocco during the Spanish Inquisition, fleeing persecution in Andalusia. These markers stand as enduring reminders of historical migrations and the lasting legacy of Morocco’s Sephardic community.
Adjacent to the Jewish quarter, the cemetery—one of the largest in Morocco at 52 hectares—reflects the community’s care for both its living and departed members. A small on-site exhibition details the history of Marrakech’s Jews and ongoing restoration efforts. Near the entrance lie the graves of Kohanim, members of the priestly class, marked in blue, while the rest of the tombstones gleam white against the red walls and bright Moroccan sun.
The cemetery is the final resting place for over 20,000 souls, with graves dating from the 14th century to the present. Its upkeep is a shared responsibility of the Jewish community and the devoted third-generation caretaker siblings, Khalid and Otman Kanami.
One corner of the cemetery holds a solemn tribute to 6,000 children who tragically succumbed to a typhus epidemic. Along the outer perimeter, you’ll find 11 mausoleums serving as the final resting places for esteemed rabbis. Among these renowned Moroccan sages are Rabbis Hanania Hacohen and Isaak Delouya, the latter being a disciple of Joseph Caro. Annually, several Hilloula celebrations take place on the anniversary of these rabbis’ deaths, providing an opportunity for the community to pay their respects to a bygone era that was once an integral part of Moroccan culture and history.
Lazama Synagogue: A Hidden Jewel of Worship
In the heart of Marrakech, home to just over 100 Jewish residents—some still living in the historic Mellah—stands one of the district’s two remaining synagogues: the Lazama Synagogue. Its name, derived from “Al Azama,” means “those who escaped from Spain,” reflecting the Sephardic Jews who arrived in Morocco following the 1492 expulsion. The synagogue has been lovingly maintained and reconstructed over the centuries.
Tucked within the old Jewish Quarter, Lazama is a testament to Marrakech’s rich heritage. Built in the traditional Moroccan riad style, it features a central courtyard with a fruit tree and a few chairs, offering a serene space for reflection. A mezuzah adorns the entrance, signaling the sanctity within, while the interior walls display intricate Zellige tile patterns interspersed with the Star of David—an elegant fusion of Moroccan and Jewish artistry.
The Lazama Synagogue houses a museum with several rooms surrounding its courtyard, each dedicated to a distinct facet of Moroccan Jewish history. Exhibits include the Jews of the Atlas Mountains, offering a glimpse into 2,000 years of Moroccan Jewish heritage through fading color photographs, documents, and videos. Other rooms showcase Jewish Moroccan music, a school with handwritten books, and a collection of old photographs documenting life in the Mellah.
The Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum in Marrakech offers visitors a unique opportunity to learn how to prepare signature Moroccan dishes. By participating in workshops, you can leave with not only detailed recipe sheets but also a wealth of culinary inspiration to recreate these flavors at home. For more details, check out NYJTG’s interview with Ms. Chamae Ait-Ouahman, the sales agent of the museum.
Exploring Fes’ Jewish Heritage
Step through the striking blue Bab Boujeloud gate into Fes’ ancient Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site frozen in time. The city’s Mellahs, or Jewish quarters, reveal centuries of history, with larger windows and open balconies that set them apart from neighboring homes.
Highlights include the city’s oldest synagogue, Slat al Fassayine, and the 17th-century Ibn Danan Synagogue, featuring a wooden bimah with an Islamic-style wrought iron canopy and a peek into the mikvah below. Nearby, the restored Beit HaChaim Cemetery is the final resting place of many esteemed rabbis, its white-arched tombstones lining a gentle hillside—a serene testament to Fes’ enduring Jewish heritage.
The Bensadoun Synagogue, a testament to Fes’ enduring Jewish heritage, is a meticulously restored 17th-century synagogue. Although small, it speaks volumes about the longstanding Jewish tradition in Fes. The Bensadoun Synagogue, which remains in active use and is exceptionally well preserved, owes its existence to the patronage of Mimoun Ben Sidan, a successful merchant originally from Ait Ishaq.
The synagogue’s entrance appears unassuming, resembling nearby house doors. Upon entering, you’ll find a brief flight of stairs leading into the synagogue’s spacious rectangular hall. The synagogue’s architecture combines sturdy masonry covered with plaster, and the space is softly illuminated by petite stained-glass windows set high in the walls. It holds the distinction of being the sole functioning synagogue in Fes today.
Adorning the synagogue’s interior are numerous memorial lamps suspended from the ceiling, creating a solemn ambiance. The walls are adorned with intricate wood paneling featuring blue-figured Moroccan tiles, adding to the synagogue’s visual allure.
At the heart of the sanctuary, a grand Torah Ark commands attention, spanning the width of an entire wall and crafted from intricately carved wood. Above it, the wall is embellished with exquisitely carved plasterwork.
Across from the ark, you’ll find a raised alcove, separated from the main prayer area by an ornate wooden screen, adorned with a series of arches. This alcove was designated as a seating area for the congregation’s esteemed members.
Dominating the space is a wooden bimah, crowned by an iron canopy fashioned with Islamic-style arches and intricate floral motifs, culminating in a majestic crown-like feature.
Mr. Shalom Tordgman, aged 63 and a native of Sefrou, holds the important role of caretaker for the synagogue. Remarkably, he is the youngest member of the congregation. In a recent conversation with visiting journalists, Mr. Tordgman shared that approximately 40 Jews still reside in Fes, with only a handful attending regular weekly services, which fall short of forming a minyan. However, he highlighted that during the High Holidays and Hiloula, the synagogue draws visitors and tourists from around the world, often filling it.
The synagogue possesses nine Torah scrolls, each adorned with exquisite velvet coats embroidered in gold. A delicate white curtain separates the section reserved for women from the main prayer area. Rabbi Abraham Sebag serves as the official rabbi and a shochet, responsible for ritual slaughtering.
One remarkable aspect of this synagogue is its collection of original memorial lamps, acquired from former synagogues in the Mellah. These antique oil lamps retain their original nameplates, bearing a rich historical legacy.
Mr. Tordgman expressed his commitment to staying and caring for the synagogue, emphasizing that he has no plans to leave. Mr. Tordgman’s deep-rooted connection to this synagogue stems from his upbringing in the area, and his unwavering commitment is fueled by the warmth, love, and support he receives from the community. As he put it, “I have no family here, but I have a lot of people who love me here, and I want to ensure this synagogue is preserved for future generations.”
By Meyer Harroch | New York Jewish Travel Guide
To plan a trip to Morocco, contact the Moroccan Tourist Office or go to http://www.visitmorocco.com/en.
Fly Royal Air Morocco: https://www.royalairmaroc.com/us-en/
The author took part in a press trip sponsored by the Moroccan National Tourist Office.
Meyer Harroch is the Founder and Publisher of the New York Jewish Travel Guide, documenting Jewish heritage, life, and culture worldwide while promoting tourism and global destinations.
Meyer Harroch is the Founder and Publisher of the New York Jewish Travel Guide, documenting Jewish heritage, life, and culture worldwide while promoting tourism and global destinations.
