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Heritage and horizons across the strait: a Jewish family adventure diary from Malaga, Marbella, Gibraltar, and Tangiers…

Heritage and horizons across the strait: a Jewish family adventure diary from Malaga, Marbella, Gibraltar, and Tangiers…

The Kashi family has always loved adventures. With four lively children—ages nine, eight, six, and three—traveling is never just about sightseeing; it’s about adventures, creating memories, learning through experience, and immersing themselves in Jewish history wherever they go. Their late-summer journey to Malaga, Marbella, Gibraltar, and Tangier brought together everything they value most: beaches, animals, culture, kosher dining, and centuries of Jewish heritage. With the help of our travel agent Suzanne Perun, Meyer Harroch from the New York Jewish Travel magazine, tour guide Joshua Marrache, tour guide Ruben Bentata, and my good friends Alexi Kelaty and Aurelia Castiel, we were able to experience adventure, explore the wonderful Jewish communities, and dine in so many wonderful kosher establishments. It was, in every way, a family adventure to remember.

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Beginning in Malaga / Marbella: History Beneath the Sunshine

The trip began in Malaga, on Spain’s Costa del Sol located in Marbella, where the family settled into the Marriott Vacation Club. Having an apartment with a kitchen, washer, and dryer made it much easier to keep kosher and manage a household of six while traveling.

With the guidance of tour guide Ruben Bentata, they explored Malaga’s layers of history. At the Castillo de Gibralfaro, the children darted through ancient ruins, pausing to marvel at the sweeping views of the city and the sea. They then wandered the Alcazaba fortress, a Moorish stronghold with winding paths, towers, and hidden corners that delighted the kids. The nearby Roman Amphitheater offered another glimpse into Malaga’s diverse past.

We felt and saw that Spain was once the heart of Jewish history. The Spanish Inquisition has impacted our Jewish history and instead of destroying us it only made our presence strengthen and shine, relocating our strong Spanish Jewish population to Morocco, Gibraltar, and other parts of the world. In 1492, when Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand made their decree, 150,000 were burned and 40,000–100,000 were expelled. Many Jews left to Gibraltar, Morocco, and other parts of the world. Till today, our Jewish presence is seen and felt in the streets.

But the heart of their visit to Malaga lay in uncovering Jewish heritage. In Plaza de la Merced, once a site of persecution where Jews were forced to wear distinguishing clothing and, in some cases, executed for refusing conversion, the family paused to reflect. It was a heavy moment, softened by the children’s innocent questions, reminding everyone of the importance of passing down memory and our heavy history in ways the young can absorb.

Nearby, they entered the Jewish Quarter, beginning at Plaza de la Judería. Malaga has taken significant steps to honor its Jewish past, including allocating land for a Jewish museum to preserve the city’s Sephardic heritage. The Kashi family also stopped at the statue of Solomon Ibn Gabirol, the great Jewish poet and philosopher born in Malaga over a thousand years ago. The children, hearing his poems described, were fascinated that someone who lived so long ago could still inspire our everyday davening.

One story especially struck them: that of Violeta Friedman, a Holocaust survivor who settled in Malaga. After recognizing one of her Auschwitz captors, she successfully pursued justice through Spain’s courts. The city honors her each year with a memorial candle-lighting, affirming its solidarity with the Jewish people. For the Kashi family, it was a powerful reminder that Jewish memory does not only live in books but also in city squares, sculptures, and public acts of remembrance.

In Marbella we enjoyed the beautiful beaches, going to Porto Banus watching all the beautiful yachts. There are seven kosher establishments and several kosher caterers offering delicious dining. The Kempinski makes a kosher program for the month of August, Succot, and Pesach. Rabbi Mendy of Chabad of Malaga has a restaurant, hosts several meals, and has regular minyanim. Our three favorite restaurants were Charlie’s Corner, El Dorado, and Milki. We got to know the owners, their families, and their personal Jewish historic journey. It was a historic culinary Spanish and Moroccan cuisine experience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gibraltar: A Rock Solid in Jewish Memory

The next stage of the journey took them south to Gibraltar, that small but storied peninsula at the very tip of Spain. Leaving their car at the border, they walked across customs into a place that is British in governance but Mediterranean in spirit—and profoundly Jewish in its roots.

Here, we were guided by Joshua Marrache, a ninth-generation Gibraltarian Jew whose family has lived there since the mid-18th century. Joshua is a tzadik and a true gatekeeper of Gibraltar’s warm, vibrant Jewish history. With warmth, knowledge, and even sweets for the children, Joshua brought the history of Gibraltar to life.

We began at the Jewish Cemetery on the Upper Rock, where six tzadikim rest, facing the sea toward Morocco and Spain, which is the Yam Hagdol. This auspicious scenic and Torah-driven location was specifically chosen to be the Jewish cemetery’s location. We made the bracha for the Yam Hagdol before entering to pray at the tzadikim’s graves: Rabbi Sholomoh Abudarham, Rabbi Joseph Elmaleh, Rabbi Raphael Moshe Hassan, Rabbi Haim Burgel, Rabbi Yeshaya Anahory.

Among them is Rabbi Abraham Israel, whose burial is linked to a miraculous story of the earth making space for him among the sages. Standing there, surrounded by the panoramic views of the Mediterranean, the family felt the weight of history intertwined with faith and the strong power of tefillah.

Gibraltar offered more than solemn moments. At St. Michael’s Cave, the children were captivated by the colorful light displays that illuminated the vast limestone chambers. At the Great Siege Tunnels, hand-carved in the 18th century, they pretended to be soldiers defending the Rock. The highlight for the kids, though, was meeting Gibraltar’s mischievous Barbary macaques, Europe’s only wild monkey population, who clambered across the Skywalk with views stretching to Africa.

Kosher dining was another highlight. At the famous Amar Bakery, a beloved institution since the 19th century, they enjoyed a meal that blended history with flavor. The bakery, originally run by the Amar family from Morocco, has been a cornerstone of Jewish life for generations. Meeting descendants of the Amar and Bentata families made the experience even more personal, connecting food, family, and tradition. We also met and sat with the current owner Etty Bentata, who shared her family’s journey to Gibraltar and her experiences—it made eating there more memorable.

The Kashi family also visited Gibraltar’s four historic synagogues: Shaar Hashamayim (1724), Etz Hayim (1759), Nefusot Yehudah (1800), and Abudarham (1820). Each carried its own atmosphere—whether through intricate hanging lamps, ancient Torah scrolls, or echoes of centuries of prayer. The children, though young, absorbed the beauty of these spaces, each synagogue a living testimony to resilience and continuity. They even kissed a Torah that was 400 years old. At the stock exchange, you can see several Jewish names engraved in the walls, attesting to the impact of Jews on the local economy in Gibraltar. We visited the local Jewish community, going to the kosher markets and seeing the Jewish schools. We really got a glimpse of current and past Jewish life in Gibraltar.

Another thing that people often ask me is what happened to Gibraltar’s Jewish community during the Second World War. When war broke out in 1939, the entire civilian population—except for able-bodied men who remained to defend the Rock—was evacuated for safety. Jewish families were sent to places like London, Northern Ireland, Madeira in the Azores, Jamaica, and Tangier. Life in exile was difficult, and for many, it would be 10 to 12 years before they could finally return home. Yet, even in displacement, the community remained united through faith, tradition, and resilience—values that have always defined Jewish life on the Rock.

We ended the day on a high note with a dolphin safari in the Strait of Gibraltar. Watching pods of dolphins leap and glide alongside their boat, with the Rock towering behind them, the family couldn’t help but feel awe at the blend of nature and history surrounding them.

Tangier: Morocco’s Gateway and Jewish Echoes

From Spain, the family crossed the Strait to Tangier, Morocco, via ferry—their first taste of North Africa. Stepping off the ferry, they were greeted with warm hospitality, their names written in Arabic on welcome bags—a detail that delighted the children.

Tangier is a city of contrasts: bustling medinas, sweeping ocean views, and whispers of its Jewish past around every corner. Their guide led them through the Medina and Jewish Quarter (Rue Synagogue), where street names and faded doorways still carried Hebrew echoes. Once home to thousands of Jews, Tangier today has only a few dozen Jewish residents, but four synagogues and two cemeteries remain as reminders of a vibrant community.

At Bazar Bouchta, the owner shared stories of his shop, once part of a synagogue. Among the antiques, the Kashi family found Jewish art, menorahs, and even a table crafted from a door decorated with Stars of David. These discoveries brought the past into the present, making history tangible for children.

Their adventure continued with nature and excitement. At Cap Spartel, where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic, they gazed from the cliffs across to Spain and Gibraltar. Seeing the Yam Hagdol again from a different angle was truly breathtaking and special. The nearby Caves of Hercules fascinated everyone with their legendary silhouette resembling the map of Africa. Later, the family set out on ATVs along the coastline, racing through forest trails with the sea beside them. The grand finale was a camel ride along the Moroccan beach, the children squealing with delight as they swayed atop these gentle giants.

Tangier did not have kosher restaurants, but the day was so full of sights and experiences that it hardly mattered. At the Kasbah, they saw Jewish artifacts and manuscripts, reminders of the once-strong Jewish presence. Many streets had Jewish names. The family left with the feeling that this was only the beginning of their Moroccan adventures—they were eager to return one day and dive deeper into its Jewish and cultural riches.

Reflections: A Summer Well Spent

As their journey ended, the Kashi family looked back on seven days that felt like both a whirlwind and a lifetime. In Malaga and Marbella, they connected with Spain’s Sephardic legacy and breathtaking beaches. In Gibraltar, they experienced living Jewish continuity and the natural wonders. And in Tangier, they tasted the blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that makes Morocco unforgettable.

For the children, it was a trip filled with monkeys, dolphins, caves, beaches, camels, and an introduction into Jewish history. For the parents, it was about weaving together fun with memory and joy with Jewish identity. And for all of them, it was a reminder that Jewish history isn’t confined to the pages of a book—it lives in cities, in synagogues, in bakeries, in cemeteries, in poems, and in the voices of those who keep the stories alive.

The trip was everything the Kashi family loves about traveling: an adventure that nurtured both body and soul. And as they returned home, one thought was already forming—where to next?

The story continues with the next travel destination—Story.
By Erika Goldstein Kashi and Joshua Marrache

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    Heritage and horizons across the strait: a Jewish family adventure diary from Malaga, Marbella, Gibraltar, and Tangiers…

    Heritage and horizons across the strait: a Jewish family adventure diary from Malaga, Marbella, Gibraltar, and Tangiers…

    Jewish cemeteries: The ESJF publishes as online books its surveys of Jewish cemeteries in Poland and Slovakia.

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