For centuries, Lublin has been a central hub in the history of Hebrew and Yiddish culture, once home to the world’s largest Talmudic school and earning the moniker “Jerusalem of the Polish Kingdom.” It was also the exclusive venue for the country’s only Jewish college.
Despite significant damage during World War II, Lublin’s charming and historically rich Old Town has been carefully preserved. The area offers a fascinating glimpse into 17th-century life, featuring a central city hall on Rynek Square, a Dominican church, well-preserved fortifications, and various city gates—all vividly illustrating the city’s illustrious history.
Lublin: A Historic and Vibrant City
Lublin is one of Poland’s officially recognized national historic monuments, attracting foreign investment and serving as a vibrant hub for artists, scientists, students, and businesspeople from across the country.
The Old Town of Lublin is a stunning blend of magnificent architecture, picturesque narrow streets, and a lively atmosphere. By day, the area is captivating, but it becomes truly magical at night, with illuminated street cafes casting a golden glow and inviting visitors to experience seven centuries of history.
Brass plaques set into the cobblestone streets mark the boundaries of the ghetto from 1941–1942, serving as a poignant reminder of the city’s recent past and its enduring historical significance.
No Visit to Lublin is Complete Without Seeing the Majdanek Camp
As Europe’s oldest memorial to Nazism’s victims, the Majdanek camp, located in the suburbs of Lublin, stands as a powerful testament to the atrocities of the Holocaust. The site includes the first Mausoleum of Struggle and Martyrdom Museum, situated on the grounds of the former German concentration camp. Majdanek has been remarkably preserved, offering visitors an immersive experience of its original state. From the prisoners’ barracks with their cramped bunks to the displays of authentic prisoners’ clothing and piles of victims’ shoes, and from the watchtowers flanking the barbed wire fences to the hauntingly preserved walls bearing the scratch marks of those who sought to escape, it’s as if time has stood still.
Perhaps the most harrowing feature of Majdanek is the “Hill of Ashes” located beside the crematorium. This somber mound contains approximately 7 tons of ground-up human bones and ashes, meticulously gathered from the camp’s grounds. It serves as a stark memorial to the countless lives lost.
The museum stands as a poignant reminder of the immense suffering endured by the European Jewish and Polish communities during World War II and the profound significance of the Soviet liberation of the camp. It compels us to remember and reflect upon a chapter of history that must never be forgotten.
LUBLIN: MUST-SEE SIGHTS
The Legend of Lublin’s Billy Goat
As you explore Lublin, keep an eye out for the Billy Goat motif adorning lanterns and buildings in the Old Town and city center. This emblem, featuring a goat climbing vines, is Lublin’s coat of arms and is steeped in a captivating legend.
According to the story, during a Tatar invasion, young residents fled the city without provisions. Miraculously, a solitary goat stayed behind, providing sustenance to the fleeing children and ensuring their survival. This iconic silver Billy Goat, with its golden hooves and horns, symbolizes fertility and strength. Spotting this emblem while wandering through the city adds an engaging and delightful treasure hunt to your visit.
The Grodzka Gate-NN Theatre Centre
The Grodzka Gate-NN Theatre Centre is a prominent cultural institution and a significant city landmark. Historically known as the “Jewish Gate,” this structure once served as both a boundary and a bridge between Lublin’s Christian and Jewish quarters, connecting two distinct communities.
When the NN Theater established itself within the Grodzka Gate in 1992, it embraced a profound mission. The theatre’s members took on the important task of preserving the collective memory of Lublin’s Polish and Jewish heritage. This relocation symbolized their dedication to maintaining the city’s rich historical legacy and fostering a deeper understanding of its multicultural past.
The Memory Gate: Preserving Lublin’s Jewish Heritage
The Memory Gate program in Lublin is dedicated to exploring the history of Polish-Jewish relations, collecting articles, documents, and testimonies related to the city’s Jewish community. Over time, it has expanded to encompass artistic, educational, and publishing activities focused on Jewish cultural heritage.
Lublin’s Jewish community once thrived with around 43,000 individuals, a history symbolized by the 43,000 folders found at the Grodzka Gate Center. Sadly, most of these folders remain empty, containing only names, serving as a poignant reminder of a vibrant community that was decimated. After World War II, only a small fraction—about 1/2 of 1%—of this population survived. The center also uncovered 3,000 glass negatives depicting Jewish life from the 1920s and ’30s, with only a few individuals identified, highlighting the Holocaust’s devastating impact.
One of the most moving displays features a life-sized photograph of Heino Ytomirski, the last image taken of him shortly before the war. Heino, a young Jewish boy born and raised in Lublin, was executed at the age of nine in a gas chamber at the Majdanek concentration camp. His story is commemorated through an annual educational initiative called “Letters to Heino,” which features letters sent to him by other children, ensuring his memory endures.
Nearby, a wall of remembrance tells the stories of various Holocaust survivors, preserving their experiences for future generations. A large-scale model of pre-war Lublin provides a poignant snapshot of the city’s past, depicting the castle alongside the Jewish quarter and Christian quarter, a stark reminder of Lublin’s rich and complex history.
Historic Landmarks of Lublin: The Castle and the Yeshiva
The 13th-Century Lublin Castle
The 13th-century Lublin Castle, one of Poland’s oldest preserved royal residences, commands a stunning view of the town and its surroundings. Its history includes periods of both grandeur and decline, having served as a Tsarist and Nazi prison. During the Nazi occupation, between 40,000 and 80,000 individuals passed through its gates, and 300 prisoners were executed before the Nazis retreated in 1944. The prison closed in 1954, and today, the castle stands as Lublin’s premier tourist attraction, housing the Lublin Museum.
The Chachmei Lublin Yeshiva
The Chachmei Lublin Yeshiva, founded by Rabbi Meir Shapiro, was a pivotal institution for Torah study in Poland. Lublin, known as “Jewish Oxford” and “Polish Jerusalem,” earned these monikers due to its rich tradition of scholarship. The yeshiva, located in the striking six-story yellow building inaugurated in 1930, remains a symbol of the city’s deep dedication to scholarly pursuits and spiritual legacy.
The Chachmei Lublin Yeshiva: From Sacred Studies to Contemporary Hospitality
The Chachmei Lublin Yeshiva, operational until the Nazi invasion in 1939, was a prominent center for young Orthodox men to engage in rigorous Talmudic studies and intricate Jewish law. Upon the Nazis’ seizure of Lublin, they desecrated the yeshiva’s interior and destroyed its extensive library in the town square. After World War II, the building briefly housed a medical academy before being returned to the Jewish community in 2004. The synagogue, a potent symbol of resilience, was fully restored by the Jewish community of Poland, marking the first such renovation since the war. It was reopened on February 11, 2007.
On October 13, 2013, the premises welcomed a new chapter with the inauguration of Hotel Ilan, a four-star hotel. The hotel features 44 rooms, including four suites, a restaurant specializing in Jewish cuisine, a lobby bar, a conference center, and a spa. Its logo proudly bears the slogan “Feel the tradition.” Guests enjoy its prime location near Lublin’s historic center and shopping malls, spacious rooms, exceptional kosher cuisine (including a must-try soup and pierogi!), and a hearty breakfast.
For more information, visit:
To plan a trip to Poland, contact the Polish National Tourist Office in North America or log on to:
https://www.poland.travel/en and www.lrot.pl
Story and photography by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide, and New York Jewish Guide
The author took part in a press trip sponsored by the Polish National Tourist Office in North America.
