The Czech Republic boasts a rich and enduring Jewish heritage that spans centuries, evident in its ten thriving Jewish communities and over 350 Jewish cemeteries. The country is home to the second-largest synagogue in Europe and the third largest globally. Many towns across the Czech Republic have significant Jewish populations, with Czech Jews making remarkable cultural contributions in both religious and secular spheres. From exquisite crystal craftsmanship to the literary genius of Franz Kafka, from flourishing kosher vineyards to the esteemed Rabbi Loew and the legendary Golem of Prague, the mystique of this region is deeply woven into its history.
While Prague stands as the epicenter of Czech Jewish heritage, exploring Jewish roots beyond the capital city offers an enticing adventure. Starting from sites near Prague and extending to locations such as Pilsen in the west, Mikulov in the south, and beyond, one can unravel the rich tapestry of Czech Jewish history.
The 10 Stars Project in the Czech Republic is a nationwide endeavor connecting 10 synagogues and Jewish heritage sites dispersed throughout the country. These sites serve as showcases of the Czech Republic’s unique cultural heritage. Going beyond mere restoration and construction, the project involves the development of permanent exhibitions and a diverse array of temporary programs, including lectures, concerts, screenings, and theater performances. These initiatives aim to provide visitors with a distinctive and authentic insight into Jewish history and Judaism.
Overview of Úštěk’s Jewish Heritage Sites
Úštěk, a charming small town in the Ústí nad Labem Region, is renowned for its medieval center and Gothic-gabled houses. Among its notable historical sites is the Tk Synagogue, established in 1794 and dramatically positioned on a sandstone foundation at the edge of a cliff.
The synagogue has undergone careful restoration, and its facilities, including the rabbi’s residence and the Jewish school, have been preserved. A notable feature is the exhibition situated between the school and the teacher’s quarters, which vividly depicts life in a 19th-century Jewish school.
Integral to the “Revitalization of Jewish Monuments” project in Úštěk was the restoration of the rabbinical house, located across from the synagogue. This preservation effort, completed between 2010 and 2014, has been essential in maintaining this significant aspect of Jewish history.
Current Use of the Building and Historical Context
Today, the ground floor of the building serves as a knowledge repository, featuring an exhibition that explores the rich history of Úštěk’s Jewish community. The first floor, which was formerly the rabbi’s quarters, hosts an exhibition focused on the history and significance of Jewish schools in the Czech lands.
Jewish schools are a distinctive cultural institution, their importance highlighted by various Biblical and Talmudic references, including those found in Pirkei Avot. Traditional education has been a cornerstone of Jewish communities, with young students, typically aged five to six, beginning their studies at the cheder. At the cheder, students learned the basics of Hebrew, Torah texts, the Mishnah, and Jewish laws. As they reached around 15 years of age, boys advanced to the yeshiva, an institution dedicated primarily to the study of the Talmud. This traditional educational framework remained prevalent in the Czech lands until the 19th century.
Historical Significance and Artistic Features of the Jewish Cemetery
The disused Jewish cemetery, with origins dating back to the 16th century, features 211 gravestones scattered across its grounds. These ancient markers primarily reflect the artistic styles of their respective periods, providing a window into the past. Alongside these historic stones, there are also more modern gravestones from the late 19th century.
A notable feature of the cemetery is a particularly striking gravestone in the Art Nouveau style, dedicated to the Heller family. Its intricate design exemplifies the artistic sensibilities of the period, adding a distinctive element to the cemetery’s historical landscape.
Třebíč – A UNESCO World Heritage Gem
Třebíč’s Jewish Quarter is a notable historical site, celebrated for being one of Europe’s most well-preserved Jewish ghettos. Its outstanding cultural and historical significance led to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, alongside the Jewish Cemetery and St. Procopius Basilica.
A key highlight of the Jewish Quarter is the Rear Synagogue, constructed in 1669, situated next to a house built in 1798. The synagogue is distinguished by its expansive, light-filled interior and adorned with exquisite Baroque paintings. The upper women’s gallery features a small yet insightful exhibition that explores aspects of Jewish culture.
After ceasing religious services in 1926, the Rear Synagogue was at risk of demolition but was preserved through extensive renovations. It reopened as the Jewish Museum in 2011 and now hosts a variety of cultural events, including exhibitions and concerts.
Within the Třebíč Jewish Quarter, over one hundred historic buildings remain, including two synagogues, the Jewish town hall, the rabbi’s residence, the school, and the hospital. The former women’s gallery now hosts a permanent exhibition dedicated to Jewish culture. This exhibit showcases a collection of significant artifacts that were integral to the vibrant Jewish community, which was tragically devastated during the Holocaust in World War II.
Trebic Jewish Cemetery: A Preserved Legacy
The Jewish cemetery in Třebíč is an extraordinary site, notable not just within the Czech Republic but throughout Central Europe. Situated on a hillside, it is home to over 3,000 graves, showcasing a range of artistic styles from Renaissance and Baroque to Classicist. This historic cemetery holds the remains of approximately 11,000 individuals, reflecting its deep historical importance. Many of the weathered tombstones, occasionally covered in moss or ivy, bear inscriptions that have faded over time. The oldest surviving marker dates back to 1625, highlighting the cemetery’s rich heritage.
Reflections at Terezin: Commemorating a Tragic Past
The Terezin Memorial, originally constructed as an 18th-century military fortress, was repurposed by the Nazis as the sole concentration camp in Czech territory during World War II. Over 33,000 European Jews perished within its confines. The memorial includes both small and large fortresses, designed according to plans from a distinguished school in Mezières-en-Brenne, France. Visitors to the site gain a profound understanding of the severe conditions faced by those imprisoned there.
Located within the Big Fortress, once a Jewish ghetto, the Museum of the Terezin Concentration Camp stands as a solemn testament to its tragic history. The museum features a range of poignant artifacts, including children’s drawings that reflect their resilience amidst severe adversity. Visitors also encounter Nazi propaganda films, and a diverse collection of cultural works produced by prisoners, showcasing their enduring creativity despite harsh conditions.
The history of Terezin is intertwined with notable figures such as Sigmund Freud’s sisters, relatives of Austrian Chancellor Bruno Kreisky, and family members of American presidential candidate John Kerry, underscoring the far-reaching impact of this dark chapter in history.
Nazi Occupation and the Fate of Prague’s Jewish Museum
Exploring Prague’s Jewish Quarter, known as Josefov, offers a profoundly moving experience that deeply resonates with visitors. This quarter, situated near the Old Town Square, stands out among European cities for its exceptional preservation, making it a rare historical gem. Often referred to as the Jewish Ghetto, it is the smallest of Prague’s districts but rich in history.
The Jewish Museum manages Josefov’s six significant Jewish landmarks, which include the Maisel Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue, Klaus Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, and the Old Jewish Cemetery. The Old New Synagogue, which remains an active place of worship, requires a separate ticket for entry.
During World War II, the Prague Jewish Museum fell under Nazi control. Originally established in 1906 to preserve artifacts from synagogues demolished during the urban redevelopment of Josefov, it was repurposed by the Nazis to create a ‘museum of an extinct race.’ They collected materials and objects from Jewish communities across Bohemia and Moravia, amassing what may be the world’s largest collection of sacred Jewish artifacts.
Prague’s Historic Jewish Cemetery: A Testament to Remembrance
The Old-New Synagogue in Prague, recognized as Europe’s oldest operational synagogue, is a prime example of early Gothic architecture, completed around 1270. This historic site features a central chamber, an entry hall, a winter prayer hall, and a designated area for women during men-only services. Recent restorations have revealed 17th-century inscriptions on its walls, and the Holy Ark, which houses the Torah scrolls, is prominently positioned on the eastern wall. A glass case at the rear of the synagogue displays light bulbs next to the names of departed individuals, illuminating their memory on the anniversaries of their deaths.
The Old Synagogue, known for its steep roof and Gothic gables, is also linked to the legend of the Golem. According to one version of the legend, Rabbi Loew subdued the mystical creature by removing its talisman during a Sabbath service and placed it in the synagogue attic, where it is said to remain, shrouded in secrecy.
Must-Visit Sites
The Pinkas Synagogue: A Memorial to Czech Holocaust Victims
Built in 1535 and in use until 1941, the Pinkas Synagogue now serves as a poignant memorial to the 77,297 Czech victims of the Holocaust. Its walls are inscribed with the names, birth dates, and dates of disappearance of those who perished. Inside, visitors can view moving artwork created by children from the Terezín concentration camp.
Europe’s Oldest Jewish Cemetery: A Layered History
Adjacent to the Pinkas Synagogue is Europe’s oldest surviving Jewish cemetery, established in the early 15th century. Although it ceased to be used in 1787, the cemetery remains a solemn site featuring approximately 12,000 weathered tombstones and around 100,000 graves, layered due to the limited space.
Notable Graves of the Old Jewish Cemetery: Historical Figures
Near the main gate of the cemetery lie the graves of notable historical figures such as Mordechai Maisel and Rabbi Loew. The oldest tombstone, a replica of Avigdor Karo’s, dates back to 1439. Many tombstones from the 17th and 18th centuries feature bas-reliefs that represent the deceased’s occupation.
The Maisel Synagogue: A Journey Through Jewish History
A short walk from the cemetery leads to the neo-Gothic Maisel Synagogue, which houses an exhibit detailing Jewish life in Bohemia and Moravia from the 10th to the 18th centuries. The collection includes ceremonial silver, textiles, and books.
The Spanish Synagogue: A Moorish Masterpiece
Located two blocks east, the Spanish Synagogue is celebrated for its breathtaking Moorish architecture and interior design. It hosts an exhibit that traces the history of Jews in the Czech Republic, from emancipation to the present day.
For additional information and to plan your visit to Prague, explore the Czech National Tourist Office website at www.czechtourism.com.
Story and photography by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide.com and New York Jewish Guide.com.
The author participated in a press trip sponsored by the Czech National Tourist Office.
